medium heat until it feels hot when you hold your hand over it.
Lay the beef rolls in the oil and cook*, turning, until brown on all
sides. (Don’t overcrowd the pan; you don’t want the beef to
steam. If necessary, do this in batches.)
When the meat is brown all over, use tongs to remove it to a
plate. Add another splash of olive oil to the pan and add the
soffrito with a pinch of salt. Cook for a while, stirring to pick up
brown bits from the bottom of the pan, until the soffrito just
starts to color (2 to 3 minutes). When it does, return the beef to
the pan.
Add the wine and use it to scrape up any brown bits left on the
bottom of the pan. Add the passata, the bay leaf, and a gentle
sprinkling of salt and pepper (not too much because the flavors
will intensify as the sauce reduces). Bring to a boil, lower to a
simmer, place a cover halfway over the pan, and cook for 40
minutes, or until the beef is tender (a knife will go in easily). If the
sauce becomes too thick, add a little water. Remove the bay leaf.
To serve, remove the beef from the pan and remove the
toothpicks. Dress with the sauce and save the remaining sauce for
the gnocchi or another type of pasta. Eat hot. Leftovers will keep
for several days in the fridge.
* If you can’t find this or any other passata, use tomato puree.* Careful, it spits. Do this on the back burner.