Secrets of the Best Chefs

uncompromising. To make extraordinary tamales at home, you’re

going to have to track down an ingredient that’s hard to come by.

The search took me all the way to the Corona neighborhood in

Queens, New York—47th Avenue and 104th Street, to be exact—

to a place called Tortilleria Nixtamal. That ingredient is fresh corn

masa, as essential for authentic tamales as matzoh meal is for

authentic matzoh ball soup. Can you make these tamales with

masa that you find in the store? Yes, you can, but you’ll miss out

on the purity and unique texture that makes them so notably good.

So do yourself a favor and find out where you can buy some fresh

corn masa in your own neighborhood.

FOR THE HUSKS

8 dried corn husks, plus more for any leftover filling

FOR THE CHICKEN

8 chicken thighs*, bone in, skin removed

1 onion, quartered

1 bay leaf

A pinch of kosher salt

FOR THE TOMATILLO SAUCE

12 medium tomatillos (or 3 cups small), stems and papery

husks removed, rinsed and patted dry

A splash of vegetable oil