Afterword
The changes were, at first, subtle. In April, I went to the
farmer’s market and bought broccoli rabe because it was in season.
I brought it home and displayed it on my kitchen counter. When
dinnertime came, I sautéed it with garlic and crushed red pepper
flakes, loosely inspired by Lidia Bastianich’s ziti recipe. Only I
served it on Anson Mills corn grits that I’d purchased along with
the rice grits that I bought for Hugh Acheson’s pork belly dish and
topped it with pickled red jalapeños I’ve been making ever since I
made them for Brandon Pettit’s pizza. The end result looked a bit
like Linton Hopkins’s greens, but this was something entirely
different, something I had improvised based on everything I had
learned writing this cookbook.
Pretty soon I was using all the various techniques I learned
cooking with all these incredible chefs—toasting tortillas over an
open flame, slicing vegetables with a mandoline, juicing fruits and
vegetables by blending them with a little water and pressing them
through a sieve—to make up dishes of my own: breakfast tacos
(with eggs, jalapeños, sour cream, and cilantro), spring radish
crostini (broiling the bread as I learned to because I don’t have a
grill), and a raw rhubarb daiquiri (“juiced” rhubarb heated with just
a little sugar until it dissolves, then cooled and shaken with white
rum). I went into this cooking journey a pretty strict recipe
follower and emerged a confident recipe creator of my own. Not
only that; before, I was slightly fearful at the stove, and now I’m