KITCHEN CONFIDENTIAL Adventures in the Culinary Underbelly

(Chris Devlin) #1

Square One in California. Back to New York with David Bouley. A
Hamptons interlude with Jimmy Sears. (Pause for breath here.) Sous-
chef for Eric Ripert at Le Bernardin (!)


As if his career wasn't going swimmingly enough for a guy who only a
few years earlier had been considering a life installing light sockets and
fuse-boxes, he then opened Lespinasse with Grey Kunz.


And if this isn't rich enough meal for you, to round out his skills and
ensure his usefulness as an all-around major league player, he crossed
the line from à la carte cuisine to pastry—a nearly unthinkable act—and
went to work with the awesome überpâtissier, Richard Leach, at
Mondrian.


See what I mean?


I would never have done that.


If I had a well-disposed Eric Ripert and Grey Kunz in my background, I'd
be endorsing blenders, committing unnatural acts in the pool near the
Vegas outpost of my not-very-good-anymore restaurant chain, and
pickling my liver in Louis Treize. At that point in my career, I wouldn't
be shutting down the whole gravy train so I could learn pastry! I'd be
mugging it up on the Food Network, schmoozing at the Beard Awards
dinner, and contemplating a future where I'd never have to get out of my
pajamas!


Just goes to show you.


Scott hates all that stuff. His partner, Gino Diaferia, says, "I have to drag
him kicking and screaming," to do a guest shot on Letterman, appear on
the Food Network, or do the dog and pony act at Beard House. "I told
him, he could get four stars someday" he says. "He doesn't want it!" Gino
shakes his head and smiles. "He says he won't play with his food that

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