PeloPonneseTHEM
ANIPeloPonneseEATING& DrINKINGPeloPonneseLAKONIAN MANIfasts that use fresh local produce. It’s just
north of the Church of Taxiarhes and has a
minimum two-night stay. The owners can
help organise walks in the mountains.
Hotel Trapela BOuTIQuE HOTEL €€
(%27330 52690; http://www.trapela.gr; s/d/tr
€60/80/90; aW) The rough-hewn stone
and lack of balconies at this 12-room bou-
tique hotel are a nod to traditional Maniot
architecture. The rooms, each named after
a Maniot settlement, sport explosed stone,
muted colours and wooden beams, coupled
with supremely comfortable furnishings.
5 Eating & Drinking
Areopoli has half a dozen tavernas and sev-
eral cafes and bars clustered along its main
street. For self-caterers, there’s a small Koil-
akos supermarket near Plateia Athanaton.Barba Petros TAVErNA €
(%27330 51205; mains €6.50-14; hnoon-11pm)
This long-standing taverna has been in the
family since 1917. The current grandchild/
owner and his daughter run the show. This
is the place to pig out in every sense – the
owner breeds his own pigs, and other meats
are sourced locally. Local specialities includeTOWER HOUSESDotted around the Mani, particularly around Kakavoulia (or inner Mani), scores of stone
towers rise eerily from the landscape. Some are solitary; some stand in clusters. Some are
intact and fortress-like; others are crumbling. From the 17th century until well into the 19th
century, the Mani was ruled by clans with chieftains, with bloody feuds constantly fought
over what little fertile land there was. These towers were family fortresses. Feuds between
warring clans were fought according to strict rules of engagement, the objective being the
destruction of the rival’s tower and the deaths of the male members of the rival’s family.
Male children were known as ‘guns’ (what else would they be useful for?) and women were
exempt from the feuds; after all, someone had to till the fields and bury the dead.
Today, a growing number of towers are being restored beyond their former glory and
turned into unique places to stay. Here are our favourite retreats:
Antares (%27330 51700; http://www.antareshotel.gr; Omales; d/ste incl breakfast €90/170; pW)
Run by the knowledgeable Mina, this beautiful tower house, 1.5km south of Areopoli,
seamlessly blends the historic (centuries-old vaulted ceilings, exposed stone walls) with
the contemporary (superb beds, powerful showers). Rooms look out over the lovingly
tended herb garden and breakfast ingredients are hand-picked from local suppliers. The
tranquillity and care that guests experience here inspire many to linger or return.
Citta dei Nicliani (www.cittadeinicliani.com; d/ste incl breakfast from €100/140; pW) The
former stronghold of the namesake Mani clan is split between this luxurious hotel and
the tower house in nearby Stavri. Expect individual engravings on stone walls, exquisite
beds and heavy wooden beams (the split-level Timeless room is our favourite). The
extensive breakfast makes great use of fresh local produce, and guests can engage in
hiking and wine tasting.
Sventoura Hotel (%6975798180, 27330 53006; http://www.sventourahotel.com; r incl breakfast
€60-120; pW) Tucked away en route from Pyrgos Dirou to the Diros Caves, this hand-
some tower, run by a wonderfully welcoming family, has just five unique, characterful
rooms. Vaulted ceilings, an antler chandelier, antique chests, wrought-iron bedsteads
and bathroom sinks, hewn artfully out of stone, all conspire to give the lodgings that
potent Maniot vibe.
Tainaron Blue (%27333 00461; http://www.tainatonblue.com; d/ste incl breakfast €150/200; p
aWs) This lonely stone tower en route from Gerolimenas to Porto Kagio is truly a retreat:
there’s nothing for miles around, except for breathtaking coastline views...which you can
enjoy from the clifftop infinity pool. The three luxurious rooms are all unadorned stone and
vaulted ceilings, combined with sumptuous beds. The Maniot cuisine is top-notch.
Pirgos Mavromichali Hotel (%27330 51042; http://www.pirgosmavromichali.gr; d incl breakfast
€130, ste €300; hclosed Jan & feb; aW) The owner has beautifully converted his family’s
300-year-old tower house in Limeni into 13 chic rooms with rain showers and Cocomat
beds. Delightful touches abound, from the vaulted lounge and little private beach to the
luxurious split-level suite.