PeloPonneseM
ESSINIAPeloPonneseGET TINGT
HE
rE & AWAYPeloPonneseKOrONImeats, he makes a mean briam (oven-baked
vegetable casserole).
8 Getting There & Away
There are two buses between Ancient Messini/
Mavromati and Kalamata (€3, one hour, daily
except Sundays), one in the early morning, the
other in the afternoon, on a changing schedule.
Check at Taverna Ithomi.
Koroni Κορώνη
POP 1700
Koroni (ko-ro-nih) is a lovely Venetian port
town on Messinia Bay, 43km southwest of
Kalamata. Medieval mansions and churches
line the town’s quaint, narrow and winding
streets. These lead to a promontory, on which
perches an extensive castle and monastery.
1 Sights & Activities
Castle CASTLE
The castle crowns a bluff overlooking the
town. Much of it is occupied by the Timios
Prodromos Convent, so a strict dress code
applies. You can enter via the castle’s impres-
sive Gothic entrance. The small promontory
beyond the castle is a tranquil place for a
stroll, with lovely views over the Messinian
Gulf to the Taÿgetos Mountains.
Zaga Beach BEACH
Koroni’s main attraction is Zaga Beach,
a 2km sweep of golden sand just south of
town. It takes about 20 minutes to walk to
here – you can cut through the castle or go
via the road. Koroni also sees loggerhead
turtles, which lay their eggs near Zaga.
4 Sleeping & Eating
The harbourfront street is lined with
restaurants.
Hotel Diana HOTEL €
(%/fax 27250 22312; http://www.dianahotel-koroni.gr; d
€45; aW) This place is blessed (or other-
wise) with Byzantine gold-plated bar stools,
icons and the like. Rooms are not quite as
glossy – they are simple but adequate. It’s off
the central square, almost on the seafront.
Breakfast costs €5.
Camping Koroni CAMPGrOuND €
(%27250 22119; http://www.koronicamping.com; camp
sites per adult/child/tent €8/4/5; pWs) Locat-
ed only 200m from Koroni, near the beach.
On-site restaurant, washing machines and
supermarket; popular with families.
Parthenon GrEEK €
(%27250 22146; mains €7-12; hlunch & dinner)
On the waterfront, a block from the main
square, this family-run seafront taverna spe-
cialises in seafood, along with a supporting
cast of classic Greek dishes.Peroulia Restaurant GrEEK €€
(%27250 41777; http://www.peroulia.gr; mains €7-15;
hbreakfast, lunch & dinner) Overlooking the
teal waters of the gorgeous Peroulia Beach,
6km north of Koroni, this waterfront restau-
rant has earned a loyal local following for its
traditional Greek cuisine and fresh seafood.
It does have occasional off-days, but the
beach alone is worth the trip. In the grounds
of the Colonides Hotel.8 Getting There & Away
Buses will drop you in the central square outside
the Church of Agios Dimitrios, one block back
from the harbour. There are services to Kala-
mata (€5, 1½ hours, five daily), Athens (€27.20,
four hours, daily) and Pylos (€3.50, 1½ hours,
five daily).Methoni Μεθώνη
POP 1170
Methoni (meh-tho-nih), 12km south of Pylos,
was one of the seven cities offered to Achilles
by Agamemnon. Homer described it as ‘rich
in vines’. Today it’s a pretty seaside town with
a popular beach, next to which looms the
most impressive example of a 15th-century
Venetian fortress in the Peloponnese.1 Sights
Kastro fOrTrESS
(h8am-3pm) F This vast, crumbling
kastro, a great example of 15th-century
Venetian military architecture, is built on a
promontory south of Methoni. It’s surround-
ed on three sides by the sea and separated
from the mainland by a dry moat. Enter
the inner keep through the mighty gateway
to discover a Turkish bath, a cathedral, a
house, a cistern and underground passages.
A short causeway leads from the fortress to
the diminutive octagonal Bourtzi fortress on
an adjacent islet.
The medieval port town, which was lo-
cated within the fortress walls, was the
Venetians’ first, and their longest-held,
possession in the Peloponnese. It was also
a stopover for pilgrims en route to the Holy
Land.