124 WALL CABINETS
the panel to the center of both rails. Add a
few drops of glue to the mortises, then slide
the stiles into place on the rails and panel.
Once the door is together, pegging the
joints will strengthen the assembly and help
frame the cabinet visually. For contrast, I
used^1 ⁄ 4 -in. walnut dowel pins. To add the
pegs, simply drill a^1 ⁄^4 -in.-dia. hole just shy
of the door thickness, then tap a length of
dowel into the hole. The excess can be sawn
off and then chiseled flush to the front of
the door.
After assembling the door, test the fit
against the case. If the assembly went to-
Shadow lines make
a simple door interesting
To build the door, the frame is grooved first
at the tablesaw and then the joinery is cut on
the tablesaw using a tenoning jig. The jig can
be either aftermarket or shopmade. I cut the
open mortises on the stiles first, then cut the
rail tenons to fit.
When the joinery has been cut, plane
down the front face of the rails an extra^1 ⁄^8 in.
so that they will be slightly inset on the stiles.
The simple flat panel for the door is cut
from^1 ⁄ 2 -in.-thick stock, then rabbeted to fit
into the frame. Start by gluing the center of
Add the shelves. After the case is glued and
clamped, the shelves are slid into the grooves.
For easier assembly, the author applies glue to
the back half of the grooves and the front half of
the dovetails.
Quick door frames on the tablesaw. With
each stile and rail connected by a unique version
of the mortise-and-tenon called a bridle joint,
the door frame enjoys plenty of strength and
good looks. To start, cut the tenon shoulders
on the rails. After grooving the frame members
and mortising the stiles, use the tablesaw to
establish the tenon length on each rail.