ROBES ANDCLOTHING
patch together for robes. In modern times, Japanese
congregations sometimes solicit funds to provide their
monks with beautiful and expensive kasaya,which can
cost up to $100,000. Even these fabrics, however, are
still cut or overstitched to resemble the patchwork re-
quired by the Buddha’s directive.
Other indications of rank and formality of occasion
include the number of columns in the kasaya,five
columns for ordinary monks and occasions, and seven
and nine columns for high-ranking monks and more
formal events. Even the fastening cords were color
coded to rank. Certain accessories also emphasized
rank. The head scarf or hood that was worn initially
by important Tiantai monks, for example, originated
from the story that ZHIYI (538–597), the Chinese
founder of TIANTAI SCHOOLBuddhism, received a gift
of a sleeve from the emperor to wear on his head for
protection against the severe cold as he administered
the PRECEPTS. Recalling this legend, the Japanese em-
peror also gave a sleeve for use as a hood to SAICHO
(767–822), who introduced Tiantai (Japanese, Tendai)
Buddhism to Japan. Later, other sects adopted the
sleevelike headdress.
Sectarian regulations were complex and underwent
many revisions in the twentieth century. Japanese un-
derrobes, for example, often have crests that symbol-
ize particular sects, and sometimes kasayaincorporate
scenes from the life of the sect’s founder. Also in Japan,
the abbreviated, folded kasayaforming long narrow
bands vary in style according to sect. They are worn
across the chest in the NICHIREN SCHOOLor sect, and
as circlets around the neck in the New Pure Land sect,
while Zen sects retain the use of a biblike abbreviated
kasaya.Laypeople also wear the abbreviated kasaya
around their necks as badges of affiliation and piety.
While Buddhist robes convey shared ideals and mean-
ings, it is clear that the color, materials, and fabrica-
tion can also distinguish the wearers from one another.
Buddhist robes as devotional objects
Kasayaare also objects of spiritual charisma that func-
tion as devotional objects and amulets. The robes of
great religious teachers are passed down to disciples as
evidence of transmission of the teachings, and they
function as proof of spiritual LINEAGE. DOGEN, in the
chapter on “The Merits of the Buddhist Robe” in his
Shobogenzo(Treasury of the True Dharma Eye), argues
that kasayaare more important than Buddhist relics.
The association of robes with relics is suggested too by
the occasional deposit of robes within Buddhist sculp-
tures along with sutras and other valuable objects.
Dogen further argues that the Buddha himself told his
monks to think of their robe as a STUPA, that is, as a
reliquary. And, in fact, relics and other precious ob-
jects were sometimes sewn into the backs of the robes.
Kasayawere also visualized as altars, with the patches
in the four corners representing the four Heavenly
Kings that protect the four corners of the altar. The
central patch was considered the seat of the Buddha,
and the two patches on either side as the attendants to
the Buddha.
The kasayaderives its spiritual worth from its abil-
ity to induce enlightenment and create merit. Tales of
its power abound from India to Japan. Two famous
examples include the story of Utpalavarna, a prostitute
in a previous life, who had once dressed herself in a
kasayaas a joke. Despite her many sins, this action,
even though it was in jest, produced sufficient merit
to eventually lead her to enlightenment. Similarly, a
JATAKAtale tells of the Buddha’s previous life as a lion
that was tricked into allowing a hunter to approach be-
cause the hunter had disguised himself and hid his
weapons within a kasaya.Realizing the ruse, the lion
nevertheless sacrificed himself rather than hurt a per-
son dressed in Buddhist robes. In short, the kasayapro-
duced merit and provided protection, and laypeople
sometimes made miniature kasayato carry with them
as amulets at all times.
The Buddhist robe is layered with meanings. It can
symbolize simplicity or splendor and can convey iden-
tities of place and position. As Dogen suggested, its es-
sential importance lies in the fact that wearing this
humble robe plants the seed of enlightenment and de-
stroys the poisonous arrows of delusion.See also:Etiquette; Merit and Merit-Making; Relics
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