When the legs are done, cut the gains (notches) in the saddle to
receive them. This is probably the most critical part of making saw-
horses. The gains are cut on a compound angle, and much of the
strength of the sawhorse depends on a good fit. Use a steel square to
make the angles. Make the first mark 3^1 ⁄ 2 in. from the end of the sad-
dle. Place the square on the edge of the 2x6 so the 3-in. mark on one
leg and the 12-in. mark on the other line up with the face corner of
the 2x6, and scribe a 4:1 (75 ̊) slope. Line up a 1x6 leg with this slope
and use its opposite edge to make a second mark. This gives you the
lengthwise slope of the leg. Now determine the spread of the legs
across the width. There are two dimensions in common use. For a
sawhorse used in house framing, the spread should be 14 in., as this
allows it to be carried between studs that are on 16-in. centers. A
20-in. spread is better for finish work and shop use because of the
added stability.
Mark the gains for this angle on top of the 2x6 by scribing a line
(^3) ⁄ 4 in. in from the edge between the two marks previously made. On
the bottom make a line that will vary according to the spread you
choose. For the 14-in. spread, it should be^1 ⁄ 2 in. in from the edge; for
the 20-in. spread,^3 ⁄ 8 in.
Using a handsaw, cut along the marks on the edge of the 2x6. Stop
cutting when the teeth touch the lines on the top and bottom of the
2x6. Now make parallel sawcuts about^1 ⁄ 2 in. apart between the first
two cuts, stopping at the top and bottom lines also. Use a chisel to
clean out the gain. Cut the leg braces from the leftover pieces of 1x6.
Hold a piece in position and mark the angles of the legs on it,
making sure the legs are spread to the correct degree and the angles
are equal. Use this as a pattern to cut the rest of the braces. Bevel the
top of each brace so it will fit flush under the saddle. After the braces
have been fastened with glue and nails, trim the legs flush with the
top of the saddle using a handsaw.
WORKBENCHES, VISES & SAWHORSES