xiList of Figures
4.1 Portrait of Shirin Guild 1999. Photograph by Christian
Cunningham. 56
4.2 Shirin Guild for Spring/Summer 1998. Oatmeal coloured
linen gauze ‘Abba coat’ worn over Nehru collared, square-
shaped jackets and apron-front pants in undyed, crinkled
linen. Photograph by Robin Guild. 58
4.3 Shirin Guild for Spring/Summer 1999. White cotton tape
sweater with random slashes of seemingly dropped stitches,
worn with white linen ‘Kurdish’ pants. Photograph by
Robin Guild. 63
4.4 Shirin Guild for Spring/Summer 2000. ‘Coat Drop Back,’
‘Tribal Pants’ and ‘Top Tank’ in dual tone linen, worn with
knitted paper neckpiece. Photograph by Robin Guild. 65
5.1a&b Two ‘giaccone’ designed for by Weekend MaxMara ranges
Autumn/Winter 1997 (Figure 5.1a) and Autumn/Winter
2000 (Figure 5.1b). Photo by Cesare di Liborio. 87
6.1 MaxMara campaign Autumn/Winter 1992–3. 104
7.1 Brian Godbold. Photograph by Norman Watson.
8.1 Front Cover of Les Modes, Paris, 13 January 1918.
Half-mourning day dress. Author’s collection. 125
8.2 Advertisement for Versace jeans couture on the back of a
number 24 London Transport bus, March 1999. 132
8.3 Dreaming of ‘designer’ trainers, a young boy shopping in
Brighton, UK, July 1999. 133
8.4 Young shoppers wearing logoed leisurewear, Churchill
Square Shopping Precinct, Brighton, UK, July 1999. 134
8.5 Promotional advertising form Tommy Hilfiger Corporation,
- 135
8.6 Elite globalized fashion magazines, from Japan, Canada,
Poland, Singapore and the UK, 1999–2000. 140