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The Hilfiger Factor and the Flexible Commercial World of Couture

large fee.^9 Thus as the First World War broke out, a pattern of successful
style and manufacturing dominance in the world of elite dressing at an
international level had been maintained and enhanced in Paris.
Whilst the industry did not close in the 1914–1918 period it did not flourish
and ever since has been hit time after time by a series of commercial blows.
It has only survived through the development of highly flexible design and
commercial responses to its shifting consumer base. As the First World War


Figure 8.1.Front Cover of Les Modes, Paris, 13 January 1918. Half-mourning day
dress. Author’s collection.



  1. Nystrom, P., The Economics of Fashion, New York: Ronald Press, 1928, pp. 215–16
    and pp. 20–210.


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