74906.pdf

Index

Chartier, Roger 25–6
Chatwin, Bruce 65
cities
nineteenth century 49–53
see also London; Paris
Clark, T.J. 50
Clarke, Ossie 106
class distinctions 18–19
Cocks, Jay 15
Cojana 108
Colacello, Bob 170–1
Cole, B. 2
Colette 114
Commes des Garçons 7, 17, 82, 176
Conran, Terence 114
consumerism
glamour 52–3
Hollywood 47–8
Cook, Pam 30
Corbin, Anton 158
cosmetics, glamour of 53
cost analysis 101
Coulson, Clare 82
counter-snobbery 174
Coupland, Douglas 169
Courrèges, André 10, 11
courtesans, Paris 50
couture
business of 121–3
commercial competition 131, 137–9
crisis of 1930s 127–8
franchising 128–30
function of 123–7
globalisation 141–2
images of 163–5
Italian 184–92
marketing 138–9
origins of 156
perfumes 133–4
ready-to-wear business 130
Coward, Rosalind 170
Cowley, Jason 39
Craik, Jennifer 77, 88, 89, 96
creativity
definitions 91–3
and fashion 93–7
Crisp, Quentin 105
cultural studies, fashion history 25–35

culture, definition of 27

‘Cutting Edge’ exhibition, Victoria & Albert

Museum (1997) 55

dandyism 171

data processing, Maxmara 98–9

Davis, Fred 74, 83–4, 89, 94

daywear, Italy 191–2

De Bord, Matthew 111

de la Haye, Amy 2–3, 55–66

De Mille, Cecil B. 46

de Roselle, Bruno 11

Debenhams magazine 39

Demeulemeester, Anne 17, 18

Deneuve, Catherine 13

department stores

environments of 113–14

glamour of 52

Paris 149–59

Derrida, Jacques 79

design history 24–5

designer labels, attainability 137

designers

academic studies about 83–5

academic studies by 70–3

communication with public 85–9

creativity 99

training of 103–6

Dessès, Jean 191

dialectical images 153–4

Dichter, Ernest 52–3

Dietrich, Marlene 44, 45

Dior, Christian

fantasy of 137, 139

franchising 129

Galliano as designer 139, 144–9

New Look 7–8, 185

disco dressing 13–14

Doherty, Maureen 114

Dolce e Gabbana 168

dress reform movement 59–60

dress studies 31

Drury, Ian 105

Dryansky, G.Y. 130

Duncan, Isadora 61

e-commerce 112–13

Eckert, Charles 47