came after thousands of rockets were fired
from Gaza into Israel, where at least 16
people died. Workers were still cleaning up
when I visited in late August, some of them
recycling rubble — such as metal from
foundations — to use for rebuilding.
I visited the city of Beit Hanoun, which
was heavily damaged. I met Ibrahim,
whose apartment was nearly destroyed,
and as I looked out from a hole in his living
room, I saw children gathered to play a
game. Nearby there is a sports complex
next to a school. Young people were play-
ing soccer.A
s I went from Israel into the Gaza
Strip, I realized I was the only
person crossing the border check-
point that day. But I immediately saw that
streets were vibrant with people shopping
and wending through heavy traffic. There
are hardly any working traffic lights in
Gaza City, so drivers wave their hands out
their windows to alert others to let them
pass.
Despite the liveliness, recent trauma
lingered in the air: In May, Israeli air-
strikes destroyed several buildings and at
least 264 Palestinians died. The fightingClockwise from top
left: A street scene in
Gaza City in August.
Childr en play a game
surrounded by homes
that had been heavily
damaged in May by
airstrikes. People
stroll through a
bazaar. Previous
pages: A girl checks
her phone inside a
damaged home in
Augus t.30 NOVEMBER 28, 2021 THE WASHINGTON POST MAGAZINE 31