84 Making doors and doorframes
FL&B AND L&B DOORS
As mentioned under Basic Door Knowledge, near the
beginning of this chapter, FL&B and L&B are well
known abbreviations in the industry for framed, ledged,
braced and matchboarded doors – and ledged, braced and
matchboarded doors. Note that, in non- technical par-
lance, the matchboarded element is not usually men-
tioned. This type of exterior door has been around for
many decades and seems to be still popular for certain
uses. The FL&B is usually seen on outbuildings other
than dwellings, but the L&B is used for sheds, fence-
gates and internally in period (or mock period) dwell-
ings; they look very attractive with Norfolk thumb
latches and cross- garnet T hinges. One variation in
FL&B doors is that the matchboarding is sometimes
tongued- and- grooved into the top, front edge of a full-
thickness bottom rail (whereby the boarding becomes
more like a panel), but – it seems to me – the other
type that has boarding running down and fixed to the
face of a bottom ledge (instead of a bottom rail) is the
more common.would recommend removing the waste carefully with
a coping saw (which requires a degree of practice). An
alternative technique for marking out the shoulders
and ovolo- mould scribes of glazing bars – especially if
you are using a timber merchant’s stock components
- is to make a glazing- bar template from an offcut of
glazing bar, as illustrated above.
Sticking boards
Figure 5.9(g): If a joiner, or a small joinery workshop,
needed to make glazing bars by hand – no doubt
with the aid of at least a portable powered router,
as opposed to more sophisticated machinery, or (at
the other extreme) ovolo- and rebate- planes – a
traditional sticking board would be useful. This is a
purpose- made jig (be it simply a certain length and
thickness of board), with the inverted shape of the
glazing bar formed on one of its edges. The idea is to
form the rebate and ovolo mould on the edges of a
board thicknessed to the bar’s widest size (say 35mm),
then rip this off and plane the ripped surface to the
bar’s narrowest size, (say 22mm). Place this, as illus-
trated at (g), in the inverted shape of the vice- held
sticking- board jig and produce the second rebate and
ovolo mould. Repeat the operation for the number of
glazing bars required.
Figure 5.9 (f) Isometric view of a typical double- ended
glazing- bar template, made from an offcut of glazing bar.
If preferred, the template could be single- ended.
STICKING
BOARDWorkpieceFigure 5.9 (g) Isometric view of the front- end of a
sticking- board jig, used to make glazing bars with
hand- planes or a portable powered router (by ‘sticking
moulds on them’; hence the origin term ‘stuck moulds’). For
illustrative purposes, the outline of the ovolo mould and the
rebate are shown on the half- shaped glazing bar. Note
the stop- end is screwed to the sticking board to allow for
changing it to the opposite end, if necessary. The screw
should be countersunk, as shown, to eliminate any risk
of striking it when planing or routeing. My experience of
using these jigs is that the inverted shape – even if not
precisely made – holds the unfixed, low- rise workpiece
very well.