Food and Wine Pairing : A Sensory Experience

240 Chapter 11 Menu Planning: Horizontal and Vertical Pairing Decisions

suggest that the fourth suggestion should supersede the fifth, as the well-aged

red in this example will be perceived as the higher-quality wine.

These basic ordering guidelines are useful to keep in mind when planning a menu

with multiple courses and multiple wines. Fortunately, in most cases, you can use time and

creativity to get around these guidelines to some extent. You are encouraged to keep these

issues in the back of your mind while planning vertical choices and to make adjustments

accordingly.

PACIFIC NORTHWEST MENU

Appetizer This course features Olympia oysters served with hot and cold contrasting

elements. Olympia oysters are known for their intense and minerally flavor, and this dish

combines these oysters, served baked, with a savory sorbet. The idea is to add a little of the

wine, citrus, and fennel sorbet with each bite of oyster—layering additional flavors, acid (like

a squeeze of lemon), and temperature differences. This non-sweet sorbet takes some getting

used to, as tradition provides us with a preconception that sorbet should be sweet. Some

people can move past this sensory ‘‘script,’’ while others cannot.

The ingredients in this dish combine some Asian elements (gingerroot and Japanese

red pepper seasoning) with traditional European preparation methods and ingredients. For

the sorbet, a Washington Riesling with a relatively high acidity and fruity flavor was used—

an off-dry version that contrasts the mineral flavor of the oysters, the salty components of

the prosciutto and sea salt, and the spicy flavors of the gingerroot and red pepper seasoning.

For this dinner, a Chateau Ste. Michelle Eroica Riesling was served. It has been described

as lively (plenty of acidity) with off-dry fruit flavors and a tangy mineral edge. These flavors

create both similarity and contrasts to the finished dish. You might also try a Sauvignon

Blanc or unoaked Chardonnay, which are classic matches with oysters.

Food Item: ‘‘Fire and Ice’’ Northwest Oysters

Yield: 6 servings

Ingredients for oysters

Ingredients for sorbet

2 oz (60 ml) extra-virgin olive oil

2 shallots, peeled and sliced into fine

julienne

2 oz (60 g) ginger root, peeled and sliced

into fine julienne

36 Olympia oysters, washed and ready to

shell

11 / 2 oz (40 g) prosciutto, sliced thin, then

finely diced (brunoise)

Sea salt

Ichimi togarashi (Japanese red pepper

seasoning)

Juice of 1 lemon

Preparation

Combine all of the sorbet ingredients. Freeze in an ice

cream freezer according to directions. Heat a little of

the olive oil in a saucepan. Add shallots and

gingerroot and lightly caramelize. Reduce the heat

and cover the shallot/ginger mixture with the

remaining olive oil. Simmer over low heat until the

shallots and ginger are tender. Open the oysters and

place them in the half shell on a baking sheet. Top

them evenly with the shallot/ginger mixture and diced

prosciutto and drizzle with the oil from the

shallot/ginger mixture. Season with sea salt, ichimi

togarashi, and lemon juice. Bake at 375°F (190°C) for

6–8 minutes. Serve immediately with a small scoop of

the frozen sorbet.

1 c (220 ml) Riesling

Juice of 1 lemon

1 tbsp (15 ml) chopped fennel

Salt

Pepper