272 Chapter 12 Wine and Cheese: A Natural Affinity?
process may create a salty, tangy, sweet, or bitter product. The texture can vary from smooth
and velvety to hard and crumbly. Cheese flavors vary substantially from mild to sharp, subtle
to intense, grassy to spicy and pungent. These differences may be the result of either the
fermentation and ripening process or the aging process, but usually involve both. A second
similarity of wine and cheese is that they are both living things that change substantially
during aging. These changes take place as they are aged (or not) by the producer as well as
when they are in their final package waiting to be consumed. This situation creates wines
and cheeses that range from fresh, young, and simple to aged, mature, and complex.
As with other foods, there are no hard-and-fast rules to pairing; much is based on
personal preferences. A number of people believe that red wine goes best with cheese, but
many wine professionals disagree with this assumption.^1 In two recent studies, the ideal
match in wine and cheese pairing was put to the test. King and Cliff found that in general,
white wines were judged as closest to an ideal match across a variety of cheeses.^2 Red wines
and specialty wines such as ice wines, late-harvest wines, and ports were more difficult to
match with a spectrum of artisanal cheeses. Harrington and Hammond tested the relation-
ship between the elements of six wines (Riesling, Sauvignon Blanc, Chardonnay, Pinot Noir,
Merlot, and Cabernet) and the food elements of four types of cheeses (soft, firm, hard, and
blue-veined). In their study, Pinot Noir was shown to be the most cheese-friendly of the
reds, and an off-dry Riesling was the most cheese-friendly of the whites. The hard cheese
(Gruye`re) was the most wine-friendly of the four cheese types.^3 A consistent finding across
both studies was a substantial amount of variation in perceived level of match across the
panel of trained judges—which supports the notion that personal preferences have a sub-
stantial impact on perceived level of match when tasting wine and cheeses.
Similar to the theory ‘‘red wine with meat and white wine with fish,’’ an old adage of
wine and cheese pairing is that ‘‘red wines go with hard cheeses and white wines go with
soft cheeses.’’^4 Just as there are exceptions to the ‘‘red wine with meat’’ rule, there are also
exceptions to this rule. In her bookThe New American Cheese,Laura Werlin recommends
white wines with a variety of artisanal cheeses produced in the United States. Some of her
specific suggestions include:●Pairing light white wines with light cheeses, such as goat’s or sheep’s milk cheeses
with a Chenin Blanc
●Pairing high-acid white wines with high-acid cheeses, such as an aged che`vre with
a cool-climate Sauvignon Blanc
●Pairing low-acid wines with lower-acid cheeses, such as a Gouda with a California
Chardonnay
●Pairing strong wines with strong cheeses, such as aged cheddar with Syrah or
Rhoˆne reds
●Pairing dessert wines with strong, salty cheeses, such as blue-veined cheeses and
Sauternes or Port^5
●Pairing wines and cheeses from the same regionThese rules are a good starting point, but cheeses and wines are constantly changing
due to aging, vintage, and processing techniques. Therefore, our own judgments should be
a guide through this maze of matching uncertainty. Fortunately, the natural affinity between
most wines and cheeses allows a match to work most of the time, but additional experimen-
tation will need to be done to achieve an ideal or synergistic match.
The main goal is to create a balance and harmony between the cheese and the wine.
You should aim to create similar intensity levels, matches using interesting contrasts, and
simple-to-simple or complex-to-complex relationships. There are several categories of
cheese, and within these categories, styles can range from delicate to mushroomy to down-
right funky.^6 The following wine and cheese suggestions range from very general to very
specific and are intended to provide a variety of wine and cheese choices. This is particularly