Don’t get a bum steer on bump steer
Words: Dave Smith
as the suspension compresses,
the fixed length of the suspension
arms and track rods are causing
steering input – bump steer.
Still with us? Probably not, as
that above paragraph is a long-
winded and confusing method
of describing a simple and basic
premise. Perhaps this diagram
(1) will help. Most of us can get
along in our street cars in blissful
ignorance of bump steer, unless
we happen to be hammering
around a circuit. The problem will
become more noticeable when
we lower the car’s suspension. All
of a sudden, the track rods aren’t
horizontal at ride height, and
when the suspension compresses
further, the arc described by the
track rods is more pronounced,
making that steering input much
more noticeable. If you’re just
cruising the streets in your lead-
sled, again, you’ll probably never
notice. It’s only if you’re pressing
on that it might become an issue.
There are ways around it. One
way of keeping the track rods
horizontal on a lowered car is
extended tapers on the track
rod ends, or spacer brackets.
This can work, but it puts a lot of
extra stress on the track rod ends
and, on many cars, the track rod
ends sit inside the offset of the
wheel so extending them may
cause clearance issues. Some use
extended tapers on the ball joints
(2) to correct geometry issues on
lowered cars, but this again can
cause stress relocation. There are
even ways of raising the steering
rack on its mounts, but the
benefits of this have often been
questioned and it’ll likely cause
more clearance problems than
solve geometry issues. Possibly
the best way of lowering an
older car whilst keeping most of
the suspension geometry stock
is the dropped spindle (3). This
uses a spindle with standard
locating points, but raises the
stub axle – the stub which the
hub is fixed to – and brake
calliper mounting points (if
applicable) upwards on the
spindle, lowering the car without
altering the steering angles.
roughly vertical, perpendicular to
the road, and possibly toeing-in
a fraction at the front edge. Now
imagine you’re heading into a
right-hand bend, or going around
a roundabout, at speed. The
weight of the car will shift to the
left, meaning the front left-hand
spring will compress. The steering
rack is fixed, but the track rod end
on the front spindle has moved
upwards, meaning that the track
rod is no longer horizontal; the
outer end has moved upwards,
and, because the front suspension
arms are fixed too, the spindle is
describing an arc when viewed
from front or rear. This means
that the lateral distance between
the rack and the spindle has
decreased, although the length
of the track rod hasn’t. Effectively,
Hell’s Angles II
Bump steer is a very difficult
concept to explain, but – and this
may be controversial – to many
of us, it won’t matter a great deal.
However, it’s worth considering.
Firstly, bump steer has nothing
to do with a bump mid-corner
affecting the car’s steering or
direction. That will affect any
car. Bump steer is to do with the
difference between the car’s
suspension and steering angles at
ride height, and the angles when
the suspension on that corner of
the car is compressed.
Consider a car with rack and
pinion steering. At normal ride
height, the track rods – the rods
between the steering rack itself
and the knuckle joints of the
track rod end – will be about
horizontal. The wheels will be
1
ACM
jargon
buster
86
UPPER LINK
STEERING TRACK ROD
UPPER INBOARD PIVOT
LOWER LINK
STEERING RACK END JOINT
UPPER BALL JOINT CTR
OUTER TRACK ROD JOINT CTR
LOWER BALL JOINT CTR
GROUND PLANE
STEERING OFFSET OR SCRUB RADIUS
LOWER INBOARD PIVOT
C/L
UPPER INBOARD PIVOT
GROUND PLANE
BUMP HEIGHT
STEERING ROD LENGTH CHANGE
LOWER INBOARD PIVOT
C/L
KINGPIN INCLINATION
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jargonbuster.indd 86 21/09/2015 14:16:05