Figure 8.11Shape of breaking wave.
Wave length
Motion of water
particle waveheight 5 H
c
h
z Sea bed
u
x
Figure 8.12Design curves for calculating velocity and acceleration of water particles in breaking wave.
0.1 0.2 0 0.1 0.2 0.3 0 0.1 0.2 0.3 0 0.1 0.2 0.3
0
0.2
0.4
0.6
0.8
1.0
1.2
1.4
1.6
Elevation
z/h
Elevation
z/h
(^0) 0.1 0.2 0.3 0 0.1 0.2 0.3 0 0.1 0.2 0.3 0 0.1
Values of (u/c)^2
0.2
0.4
0.6
0.8
1.0
1.2
1.4
1.6
1.8
Values of^1 gdudt
x
h^5 0.2
x
h^5 0.4
x
h^5 0.8
x
h^5 1.6
x
h^5 0.2
x
h^5 0.4
x
h^51
x
h^50