The drill is then removed from the lathe and the shoulder is resharpened to the correct angle of the
original drill. It is wise to select the drill size to about .0025 thousands smaller than the finish size of the
bore. The reamer will remove the extra stock, and finish the bore to a close fit for the liner.
A shaft close to the size of the drill is now brassed to the end of the drill. The shaft is slightly beveled,
and the drill and shaft is laid in a piece of angle iron. The shaft has to be raised slightly to be centered
with the drill. After all is lined up the two are brassed together, and let cooled slowly to relieve any stress.
Grind off any extra brass and drill is ready to use.
BORING THE BARREL
Remove the barrel from the action, and any other attachments such as sight, etc. that may be on the
barrel. The barrel is then centered in the lathe using the lath chuck if the spindle is large enough for the
barrel will fit inside the Head stock Spindle. If the spindle hole is too small. The barrel will have
supported with a steady rest on the chamber end, and the chuck on the muzzle end.
Insert the drill in the tail stock chuck, or in a special holder on the carriage. The carriage is the best way
to rebore the barrel, as the drill has to be with drawn about every half inch to clean the drill.
Start the lathe up, lubricate the bore with a good grade of cutting oil, and adjust the speed for the drill
size that you are using. Start the pilot in the chamber end, and engage the feed on the carriage. Have
the feed set for a slow feed rate, or the drill can be fed in by hand if so desired. Feed the drill in the
barrel for about a half an inch, remove from barrel, and clean the chips from the drill.
RELINING THE BARREL
The barrel to be relined is placed on a soldering stand, while gas burners heat it along its full length,
from each side. When it reaches the proper heat it is tinned all over, insides, with a stiff wire brush. If the
brush is used, it is dipped into and saturated with regular tinners solder and the barrel is tinned by
running the tool or brush through the barrel.
The liner has its ends plugged with wood plugs and is tinned on the outside. It is inserted in the barrel
and worked back and forth so excess solder is worked out. The surfaces of both barrel and liner are
evenly tinned. The liner is left about three inches longer than the barrel, an even amount being allowed to
extend from each end of the barrel.
Stand the barrel upright while cooling. After it is cold, hang it up with a wire and strike it with a small
hammer. If you have a good soldering job, it will ring. If it does not ring, the liner will have to be removed