If the wood has an open grain, apply wood filler especially made for stocks and to go under lacquer. It is
important that the correct type of filler be used. One made for varnish will be dissolved by lacquer. After
filler is applied, repolish stock with very fine grit sandpaper.
In applying filler, rub it in both with and across the grain. Let it dry partially and continue rubbing until it
takes on a light sheen. Apply more filler if necessary, to be certain all wood pores and cracks are filled.
Wipe off excess only across the grain. If you wipe with the grain, you will remove the filler. Let dry
thoroughly.
Apply a thin coating of lacquer especially made for gun stocks. A spray can or a paintbrush may be
used. After drying, polish with #400 fine grit paper. Apply another coat of lacquer. Some workers prefer
three or more coats, sanding in between.
Use your own judgment about the number of coats. Too many or too thick applications are likely to crack
and peel, so be certain the coats are thin and well polished in between.
TIPS ON USING LACQUER
Since most people have had much more experience with varnish that with lacquer, the best way to
explain the tricks of lacquer application is to contrast them with varnish.
- Instead of laying the material on, then smoothing it, you should try to flow lacquer on in a good wet
coat without too much brush back. Move fast, using long strokes. Keep a wet edge by working in small
areas. Usually a relatively long and narrow area is easiest to handle. To keep the action fast, use a
wider brush than you might like for varnish. Never apply lacquer with a tiny brush unless the project itself
is tiny. Width rather than fullness is the mark of a good lacquer brush, which need not have bristles as
long as are considered best for varnish. - Instead of using lacquer as thick as you can brush it comfortably, as you do with varnish, keep it thin
enough to flow out well. This may mean some thinner, even in a material such as Satin lac, which is
canned at a brushable consistency as it is. Be sure to buy a good thinner. There are many chemicals
that will reduce the consistency of lacquer, but not all of them produce good results. Thin all coats, if
necessary. - Sanding between coats is not necessary with lacquer to provide adhesion. Each coat tends to soften
the preceding one minutely, bonding to it. Thus, scarifying for mechanical bond, as with varnish, doesn't
help. However, you may want to scuff sand enough to knock off high spots and the few dust specks you'll
you will be bound to get, even with lacquer.
If you are working toward a high rubbed finish, you will always sand to plane the surface, if application is
rough. Do not use, water on between coat sanding with lacquer. Be sure to give lacquer at least four
hours to dry before sanding and re coating. Give the final coat overnight, before you do the last stages
of rubbing with pumice.