ease.
It is practically impervious to water and will stand much use, and even abuse, without cracking or
peeling. It comes in either a high gloss or a soft or satin finish. It may be used as a wood sealer, and/or
as a filler, or for the final finish as well.
No wood filler is required, since it is its own filler if several coats are applied, with excess rubbed and
polished off between coats.
If the resin finish is to be used as a wood filler as well as a sealer, apply as above instructions. If you
allow the resin to dry, it is so hard that subsequent coats will not stick to it. If you are using a final finish of
something other than resin, allow the filler coat to dry a full 24 hours before polishing it back down to the
base wood with steel wool. This should leave every wood pore filled completely so the regular, final
finish can be applied.
APPLYING AN OIL FINISH TO THE STOCK
An oil finish is considered by many gun owners to be the most handsome of all, especially if the wood of
the stock is especially fine. The reason an oil finish is not usually applied by commercial gun makers is
that it is a time consuming process. However, the individual gun owner will get much pleasure out of
refinishing his stock, and have a beautiful product as a result. While time consuming, the process is
quite simple. The following suggestions should prove helpful.
Use a regular gun stock oil or Tung Oil rather than boiled linseed oil.
Linseed Oil, Trueoil, Tung Oil, and Genuine Oil are three of the better known brands. They are much
easier and faster to use than linseed oil, and leave a handsome finish.
See Sanding stocks at the start of this article.
When the stock has been filled with oil, hang it outdoors in the sun and wind and let it dry completely.
Apply a second and third heavy coat of oil, drying completely outdoors between coats. Allow the third
coat to dry for a full twelve hours at least.
FINISHING THE STOCK
STEEL WOOL AND OIL - The steel wool pad is soaked with any light oil like machine or crude oil, and
then used to rub the surface in the same manner as in the dry rubbing method. The surface must be
dried clean of oil and grime after the rubbing operation has been completed. No other polishing device
is necessary since the oil remaining on the surface serves as the polishing agent,
The width of the scratch produced by the abrasive determines the amount of luster resulting on the
surface. Thus, if a series of very wide scratches is made on the surface, a very dull appearance will
result, and if a series of very fine scratches is made, a gloss surface will result. No scratch at all should