THE COLORS OF PENETRATING FINISHES
The natural look of the penetrating finishes is at its best on open pored woods such as oak, walnut,
mahogany, pecan, chestnut, etc. It leaves their texture unfilled, and makes them look like wood. Maple,
birch, cherry, and other close grained woods take the finish, of course, but are not so spectacular as the
coarser textured species.
Darker colored walnut reaches its usual dark brown color. Rosewood's browns go almost black.
This degree of darkening is considered ideal for each species.
Stain is not usually required. If you want a penetrating finish that is lighter in color, use a wood bleach to
lighten the natural color a shade or two. Of course, no filler is used with a penetrating resin finish.
Although the color given woods by a penetrating resin finish alone is usually appreciated by most
people in the darker woods, you may want to stain some of the lighter species. If you use a pigmented
wiping stain, then follow it with a penetrating finish. The finish will not change the color of the stained
wood, other than to intensify it slightly. The reason for this is that most pigmented wiping stains are
mixed in a vehicle that is much like a penetrating finish.
If you use water or a non-grain raising stain, however, you must expect a considerable intensification of
the color, a shift in hue toward the reds, and some darkening.
HOW TO BUY PENETRATING FINISHES
There are two kinds, one is formulated on the phenolic resins, the other on alkyds. The phenolics tend to
penetrate deeper. Look for the word penetrating and the word resin. Look for instructions that tell you to
brush it on and wipe it off. Every major paint manufacturer has a penetrating resin finish.
There are materials that are similar in application based on oils, not resins. In situations where
protection is not important, they can be used, although they offer no advantages in service or application
ease.
It is practically impervious to water and will stand much use, and even abuse, without cracking or
peeling. It comes in either a high gloss or a soft or satin finish. It may be used as a wood sealer, and/or
as a filler, or for the final finish as well.
No wood filler is required, since it is its own filler if several coats are applied, with excess rubbed and
polished off between coats.
If the resin finish is to be used as a wood filler as well as a sealer, apply as above instructions. If you
allow the resin to dry, it is so hard that subsequent coats will not stick to it. If you are using a final finish of
something other than resin, allow the filler coat to dry a full 24 hours before polishing it back down to the