The Art of French Pastry

there’s less butter in it.
Over centuries of on-and-
off occupation by the
Germans, Alsatians
learned to be frugal.
What distinguishes
kougelhof from other
brioches is its shape—it has
a hole in the center—and
the fact that it’s baked in a
glazed ceramic mold.
These molds have been
used in Alsace since the