Customizing Your Work Area
232 Chapter 5
The surface of your desk or workbench will undoubtedly become scarred by ran-
dom scuffs, cut marks, and drops of molten solder. I use a piece of half-inch ply-
wood, two feet square, to protect my primary work area, and I clamp a miniature
vise to its edge. To reduce the risk of static electricity when working with sensitive
components, I cover the plywood with a square of conductive foam. This is not
cheap, but offers advantages in addition to protecting chips from being zapped.
Instead of scattering stray components, I can stick them into the foam, like plants
growing in a garden. And like a garden, I can divide it into sections, with resistors
on one side, capacitors on the other, and chips straight ahead.
Inevitably, during your work you’ll create a mess. Little pieces of bent wire, stray
screws, fasteners, and fragments of stripped insulation tend to accumulate, and
can be a liability. If metal parts or fragments get into a project that you’re build-
ing, they can cause short circuits. So you need a trash container. But it has to be
easy to use. I use a full-size garbage pail, because it’s so big that I can’t miss it
when I throw something toward it, and I can never forget that it’s there.
Last, but most essential: a computer. Now that all data sheets are available
online, and all components can be ordered online, and many sample circuits
are placed online by hobbyists and educators, I don’t think anyone can work
efficiently without quick Internet access. To avoid wasting space, I suggest you
use a small, cheap laptop that has a minimal footprint. A possible workbench
configuration, using a steel desk, is shown in Figure 5-7.
Figure 5-7. An old steel office desk can be
as good as, if not better than, a conven-
tional workbench when building small
electronics projects. It provides a large
work area and ample storage, and has
sufficient mass for you to ground yourself
when dealing with components that are
sensitive to static electricity.
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