Food: A Cultural Culinary History

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Lecture 31: Immigrant Cuisines and Ethnic Restaurants


Mintz, Tasting Food, Tasting Freedom.
Pilcher, Que Vivan los Tamales.
Witt, Black Hunger.
Zeigelman, 97 Orchard.

A New Way to Cook Vermicelli
Antonia Isola was the pseudonym of Mabel Earl McGinnis, who wrote the
fi rst Italian cookbook published in the United States in 1912, entitled Simple
Italian Cookery. She had spent time in Rome and purported to introduce
mainstream Americans to authentic Italian food, a process that continues
to this day. As one can see from the following unusual technique, Italian
American food and Italian food had already begun to drift apart, and this
recipe clearly refl ects the latter.

Timbale of Vermicelli with Tomatoes (Neapolitan Recipe)
Take ten medium-sized fresh tomatoes and cut them in two crosswise. Put
a layer of these into a baking-dish with the liquid side touching the bottom
of the dish. Now put another layer with the liquid side up, sprinkle on salt
and pepper. Break the raw vermicelli the length of the baking-dish and put
a layer of it on top of the tomatoes. Now add another layer of the tomatoes,
with the skin side touching the vermicelli, a second layer with the liquid side
up, salt and pepper, and another layer of the raw vermicelli, and so on, the
top layer being of tomatoes with their liquid side touching the vermicelli.
Heat three or four tablespoons of good lard (or butter), and when the lard
boils pour it over the tomatoes and vermicelli; then put the dish into the oven.

Culinary Activity
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