Beta-carotene is effective as a protective measure against melasma because it changes the chemical
mechanism of skin pigment cell production.
Vitamin A is available as retinol, retinyl palmitate, retinyl acetate, or beta-carotene packed in
softgels and is sold in health food stores and online. Retinol is most effective but most irritating,
while beta-carotene, retinyl acetate, and retinyl palmitate are better tolerated by sensitive skin.
Vitamin A mixes well with most creams and lotions in the following proportion: 10,000 IU per ounce
of base product. Do not exceed the recommended dosage. Since beta-carotene is fat-soluble, it
accumulates in the fat tissues in our body, and excessive vitamin A intake (more than 10,000 IU a
day) can lead to dangerous side effects.
Vitamin B3 (niacin, or nicotinic acid)
Deficiency in vitamins of the B group can result in many beauty woes, not to mention other serious
consequences. Lack of vitamin B1 may lead to edema (swelling of bodily tissues); vitamin B2
(riboflavin) deficiency causes chapped lips, seborrheic dermatitis, and high sensitivity to sunlight; not
getting enough vitamin B3 (niacin) and vitamin B6 (pyridoxine) may cause dermatitis; while
deficiency in vitamin B5 (pantothenic acid) can result in acne.
Among vitamins of the B group, only one has been proven effective when applied topically.
Vitamin B3, or niacin (nicotinic acid), is a potent skin rejuvenator. A 2007 study in Tucson, Arizona,
reported that when applied topically to photodamaged skin, niacin repaired the skin barrier by
increasing the stratum corneum thickness by approximately 70 percent and decreased water loss
through the skin by approximately 20 percent while increasing the rates of skin cell renewal
(Jacobson et al. 2007). Earlier studies have proven that niacin can smooth out wrinkles, reduce
inflammation in acne and rosacea, and even hold back the development of UV-induced skin cancers.
Niacin is used in cosmetics for its antiaging and skin-whitening properties. Niacinamide is a key
ingredient in such upscale antiaging creams as Hylexin and Shiseido Future Solution. Niacin is often
sold in pharmacies and health food stores, but it may contain fillers and anticaking agents. You can
prepare your own niacinamide-rich skin cream by adding one teaspoon of pure niacinamide (sold
online) to 4 ounces of cream or lotion.
Vitamin C (ascorbic acid)
Of all the topical vitamins, ascorbic acid probably has the best track record. Vitamin C in its
various forms protects us from free radicals that form during sun and pollution exposure. Ascorbic
acid is also necessary to synthesize collagen, and it is known to inhibit the synthesis of the skin
pigment melanin, probably by preventing skin cell damage before melanin synthesis can be triggered
by UV exposure. (You will learn more about the sun’s effects on skin in Chapter 10, “Green Sun
Protection.”) Numerous studies have demonstrated that ascorbic acid, especially in combination with
vitamin E, can even repair past damage to your skin by age and sun. Ascorbic acid and its derivatives
promote wound healing and reduce inflammation and skin swelling. The latest findings regarding
vitamin C suggest that it can be a very effective skin lightener, similar to hydroquinone, but without
the side effects. Another important quality of vitamin C is its ability to stabilize sunscreen ingredients,
making sun-protective formulations even more effective.
To use vitamin C in your DIY preparations, look for L-ascorbic acid, not calcium ascorbate. You
can buy pure ascorbic acid online or use powdered vitamin C, such as Philosophy Hope and a Prayer.