the condition of skin. Instead, intense cleansing and scrubbing can worsen the inflammation in acne
breakouts, and synthetic antibacterial agents such as Triclosan and chlorhexidine do not affect acne
bacteria.
Green Cleansing in Detail
Single- or double-cleansing, I simply love washing my face! I believe that facial cleansing is the
most underestimated step of a skin care routine. In Chapter 2, we talked about various synthetic
chemicals used in beauty products. Many of these chemicals may be or are already proven to be toxic
to your skin, and by removing these chemicals from their products, cosmetic manufacturers are
reluctantly acknowledging the fact that they were doing something wrong. We already know that many
conventional skin care products contain such chemicals despite the factual evidence arguing against
their use. However, I still believe that cleansers, even when made entirely of synthetic chemicals, can
only do relatively minor damage compared to toxic sunscreens or foundations.
How do we use cleansing gels and milks? We apply them, briskly rub our faces, snort and spit the
obnoxious foam, and quickly rinse it off in less than a minute. A cleanser’s penetration may be
improved by added acids (lactic, ascorbinic, or salicylic), warming actions (“self-heating” masks
and gel cleansers are becoming popular), or exfoliating particles. Some cleansers employ all three
big guns in order to achieve prime cleanliness. Unfortunately, not all synthetic cleansers deliver
remarkable results, or any results to justify the use of toxic and potentially carcinogenic substances.
More often than not, they are made of ingredients that are not physically capable of thoroughly
cleansing our skin. Most nonfoaming milky cleansers, labeled as cleansing lotions, milks, and creams,
are made of water, mineral oil, beeswax, stearic acid (a highly androgenic substance made of animal
tallow), synthetic wax ozokerite, and glycerin or propylene glycol, plus minuscule amounts of herbal
extracts, vitamins, and fragrances. Foaming cleansers usually contain water, sodium lau-reth/ lauryl
sulfate, propylene glycol, triethanolamine, or the more “natural-sounding” cocamide DEA, MEA, or
other ethylene amines. Most likely, these cleansing gels and lotions contain synthetic colors and dyes,
all striving to please us. Would you use a cleanser that has a “clean water smell” and color that is
“pure as ocean water” or an organic substance that smells like whipped tomato oatmeal and looks
even worse?
All cleansers, whether biodynamic gels for your face or basic liquid soap for your floor, function
in the same way. Non foaming cleansers (oils, milks, and lotions) contain a lot of fatty acids that lift
oils in makeup, cosmetic products, and daily grime. Foaming cleansers contain surfactants, or
substances that persuade oil and water to mix so they can be washed away together, grabbing all dirt
and other solids along the way. The stronger the surfactant ingredient in a soap, the more residue it
can remove.
Ideally, an effective facial cleanser washes the daily amount of dirt, oxidized sebum, and dead skin
cells off your face while leaving behind enough of the skin’s own oil (sebum) to naturally moisturize
your skin. If a cleanser, used alone or in a double-cleansing ritual, leaves your skin feeling dry, it is
removing too much of this natural moisturizer. If it leaves your skin feeling greasy and sticky, either it
isn’t removing enough oil or it contains heavy emollient and film-forming ingredients that clog pores.
What’s different about green cleansers? With plant oils, it’s simple: the most natural facial
cleansing oils contain pure or organic cold-pressed oils and herbal extracts grown without toxic