application (Chatelain et al. 2003), and a 2001 Australian study concluded that sunscreen chemicals
are the most common cause of photoallergic contact dermatitis (Cook, Freeman 2001).
Let’s not forget about our daily toxic burden due to an overabundance of carcinogenic chemicals in
our food, cosmetics, and household products. Conventional sunscreen lotion is packed with
petroleum-derived emollients, penetration enhancers, paraben and formaldehyde preservatives, and
synthetic dyes and fragrances. Heat, rubbing, and perspiration drive these ingredients deeper into the
skin. Generous use of toxic sunscreen and other skin care products could be another reason why the
rates of cancers have skyrocketed in the past few years.
On the Sunny Side
A decently formulated sunscreen is a very important step in your beauty regimen. As you already
know, ultraviolet light provides us with vitamin D, but too much sun exposure can cause skin damage
and melanoma. Different wavelengths of ultraviolet light penetrate the skin at different depths, causing
varying levels of damage. Therefore, a good sunscreen should protect us from all types of the sun’s
rays, but should not be irritating or toxic, of course.
Spend a minute reading the ingredients label and avoid harsh chemical ingredients. These include
para-aminobenzoic acid (PABA), ben-zophenones (benzophenone-3 and oxybenzone), cinnamates
(octyl methoxycinnamate and methoxycinnamate), and salicylates (such as octyl salicylate).
Finding truly natural sun care products must be high on the organic shopper’s priority list. This is
easier said than done because many sunscreen products that are advertised as “natural” actually
contain the same active chemical ingredients as mainstream brands. Chemical sunscreens, which
absorb light, are popular because they are lightweight and penetrate quickly. However, their ability to
trigger allergies and irritation is supercharged by sitting in the sun. Another downside of chemical
ingredients is that they are not photostable and start breaking down when they have been exposed to
the sun.
What to Look for in a Sunscreen
To begin with, a good sunscreen should contain active ingredients that protect us from all types of
sun radiation. Until now, most sunscreen products sold in the United States focused on blocking UVB
rays. Newer substances, such as Mexoryl (also called ecamsule; chemical name terephthalylidene
dicamphor sulfonic acid), provide efficient UVA protection, and they are more stable under the sun’s
rays. Sunscreens containing Mexoryl are widely used in Europe and Canada. In 2006, the U.S. Food
and Drug Administration approved it for use in U.S. cosmetic products. Unfortunately, Mexoryl is
exclusive to L’Oreal, and we have yet to see a truly green beauty product coming from under the
French beauty giant’s wing. Mexoryl is usually paired with potentially carcinogenic triethanolamine
to keep the pH of the product in balance. To keep the formulation stable, large concentrations of
paraben preservatives are also used.
Green beauty embraces mineral, physical sunblocks. Wearing a mineral sunscreen is like wearing
thousands of tiny mirrors on the skin that reflect the sun’s rays. They sit on top of the skin and are less
irritating than sunscreens. Mineral sunscreens include zinc oxide and titanium oxide. Both minerals
have a wider spectral range of activity than any synthetic sunscreen ingredients. While the entire
range of UVA and UVB radiation is 280 to 400 nm, titanium dioxide’s range of protection is 270 to