panel organized and sponsored by the cosmetic industry declared them safe for use. Also, steer clear
of cocoamide diethanolamine (DEA) and ammonium laureth sulfate, which often make up to one-third
of an average shampoo bottle. Any ethoxylated compounds are a major no-no in a truly organic beauty
product.
The quality of a detergent—that foam-producing ingredient that dissolves oil and grime—is
the most important thing to consider when choosing a shampoo.
Even shampoos that claim to be organic can contain harsh cleansing agents. This is one of those
rare cases when buying products in a health food store doesn’t always help, because most otherwise
green and ethical brands still use detergents from the sulfate family as well as ammonium laureth
sulfate or cocoamide DEA/MEA. Sometimes keen marketers add a clause “derived from coconut”
following the dubious ingredient, but the fact that sodium laureth sulfate has coconut as its distant
relative doesn’t make this detergent any safer. For dangers of ethoxylated ingredients and particularly
detergents, refer to Chapter 2, particularly the section on 1,4-Dioxane.
Close label reading reveals that, instead of sodium laureth sulfate, some natural brands use other
sulfate family members, such as sodium myreth sulfate. Needless to say, such ingredients do not
contribute to the health of your hair and scalp, and they cannot be recommended for use in truly green
products.
There aren’t many green cleansing agents available. Many natural brands favor cocamidopropyl
betaine, derived from coconut using petrochemicals, and petroleum-derived olefin sulfonate. One of
the greenest, lauryl glucoside, is a soapy blend of coconut oil, corn starch, and sugar, but it isn’t used
frequently because of its higher price. It’s necessary to remember that most organic beauty
manufacturers are in the business to make money, and they are often prone to cut corners and replace
quality ingredients with cheaper alternatives after the product has been launched successfully.
Humectants and emollients in shampoos are nice additions, but they make little difference because
they are washed off so quickly. Still, vegetable glycerin, aloe extract, jojoba oil, honey, and lecithin
make shampoo more nourishing as they fill in the pores of a hair shaft and keep the hair surface
smooth. They also soothe and moisturize the scalp. Since human hair is made of dead protein, it’s
impossible to infuse it with proteins—butmilk, wheat, soy, rice, and oat extracts do make hair softer
and more resilient. Some plants, such as calendula, yarrow, and burdock, work as mild astringents
and can soothe scalp irritation, while citrus oils, apple cider vinegar, and rosemary seal the hair
cuticle and help create a brilliant shine. Many organic brands offer concentrated shampoos with little
added water. This is economical, since you only need a drop of shampoo to make a nice lather, and
this also eliminates the need for strong preservatives. Grapefruit seed oil, vitamins A, C, and E,
benzoin extract, and wheat germ act as natural preservatives in these shampoos.
How often should you shampoo? It depends on the state of your hair. If your hair is fine and dry,
daily shampooing, even with the mildest product, can increase dryness. If you spend a lot of time in
the sun, or if you wear lots of styling products, shampooing daily is recommended. Look at the
condition of your hair and act accordingly! Yet be aware that frequent washes in hard water can make
your hair brittle and prone to split ends. “Women use way too much shampoo,” notes John Masters,
the pioneer of professional organic hair care and colors. “Besides, they use too much pressure when
they wash their hair. Daily shampooing is not essential. You have to learn to be gentle to your hair.”