THE GOOD AND BAD IN COSMETICS
How strong is the solution? If the concentration of a certain ingredient is high, then it has a better
chance of sneaking though the skin’s protective barriers. For example, the skin will be exposed to
more retinoic acid from a potent prescription-only cream than from an over-the-counter lotion that
contains the same ingredient.
How long will it remain on the skin? The longer the product sits on the skin’s surface, the more of
its ingredients will be absorbed. Our skin will soak up more paraben preservatives from a
moisturizer that remains on the skin for hours than from a cleanser that is quickly washed off, but if
you rub the cleanser vigorously, the absorption rate will increase.
How much water does it contain? It was once thought that oil-based skin care products penetrate
the skin more readily than those that contain water. Today, we know that well-hydrated skin absorbs
chemicals at a much higher rate. Besides, hydration can be increased by paraffin, oils, and waxes.
Paraffin, oils, and waxes as components of skin creams, ointments, and water-in-oil emulsions—
basically anything that prevents transepidermal water loss—can improve the amount of chemicals
soaked up by skin. Water acts as an excellent natural penetration enhancer. That’s why your skin can
absorb more chemicals when you soak in synthetic bath foam for long time.
How healthy is the skin? Undamaged, strong skin can shield us from many toxic substances and
germs, but even a slight scratch or cut becomes a welcome sign for anything we do not want inside
our bodies. Even something as innocuous as the removal of outer layers of skin with a facial scrub or
a peeling mask can dramatically increase dermal absorption. Inflamed, swollen acne pimples absorb
more benzoyl peroxide than the healthy skin just a millimeter away.
Where do we apply the product?Skin on different areas of the body varies in thickness. For example,
facial skin will absorb ingredients twenty times faster than the thicker skin on the palms of the hands.