decreasing skin inflammation. Earlier studies showed that alpha-lipoic acid could increase cellular
energy, decrease UV-induced damage to skin, and even neutralize heavy metals (Ho et al. 2007).
As a cosmetic ingredient, alpha-lipoic acid is both versatile and economical. It can be added to
toners, moisturizers, and sunscreens. It is available in health food stores in capsules and online as a
fine yellowish powder. It can be dissolved in most base products in the following proportion: 300 mg
of alpha-lipoic acid to 1 ounce of base product, keeping the concentration of alpha-lipoic acid in your
preparation under 3 percent. Please note that it may not dissolve easily, so start slowly and blend
thoroughly. As with any acid, ALA can sting when applied topically, so if your skin is on the
sensitive side, always perform a patch test. Start with a lower concentration of ALA and build it up
as you become handy in mixing your DIY products.
Apple (Pyrus malus)
This popular fruit is used in cosmetics in the form of juice or concentrated extract that is a source
of alpha hydroxy acid. Apple juice is used in exfoliating peels and masks. Apple juice contains the
phenolic compounds quercetin, epicatechin, and procyanidin B-2, which may be cancer-protective, as
it has demonstrated powerful antioxidant activity.
Apricot (Prunus armeniac)a
Apricot kernel is rich in oil that is believed to have anticarcinogenic properties. In the seventeenth
century, apricot oil was used in England against tumors and ulcers, and Laetrile, an alleged
alternative treatment for cancer, is extracted from apricot seeds. Crushed apricot kernel is commonly
used in face and body scrubs.
Arbutin
This glycoside, which is similar to hydroquinone, prevents the formation of melanin and is used as
a skin-lightening agent. Arbutin is extracted from bearberry plants, and it is also found in wheat and
pear skins. In November 2007, Korean scientists found that a new arbutin compound, arbutin-beta-
glycosides, synthesized from bacterium Thermotoga neapolitana, inhibits melanin production in
melanoma skin cancer cells by up to 70 percent (Jun et al. 2007). However, since arbutin is very
similar to hydroquinone, it may pose the same carcinogenic risks. German microbiologists found that
intestinal bacteria can transform arbutin into hydroquinone, which may promote the formation of
intestinal cancer (Blaut et al. 2006). Until science knows more, it may be advisable to use arbutin-
containing compounds with caution.
Arnica (Arnica montana)
I personally have very mixed feelings about arnica. I was introduced to arnica extract when I was
looking for a chemical-free topical pain-relieving balm to use postpartum. Arnica extract has been
traditionally used to alleviate muscle pain and help heal bruises. Arnica, rich in sequiterpenes,
flavonoids, and phenolic acids, is well known for its potent anti-inflammatory and antitumor effects.
However, some studies note that the terpenoid helenalin found in arnica is a highly toxic compound.
Arnica can be very irritating, and medical science knows quite a few cases of severe allergic
dermatitis to this plant. Most often, people who are allergic to chamomile are allergic to arnica as
well. Because of its high irritancy potential, arnica is not recommended for use in baby products. My