Jojoba (Simmondsia chinensis)
Jojoba seeds contain liquid wax, commonly called jojoba oil, which is chemically closest to the
skin’s sebum. Besides its emollient action, jojoba liquid wax has mild anti-inflammatory action,
which can be very beneficial in treatment of acne and sunburns (Habashy et al. 2005). This odorless,
colorless, and very stable substance is a great moisturizer and carrier oil for natural fragrances and
massage oils. In beauty preparations, jojoba liquid wax also acts as a penetration enhancer. In natural
hair care, jojoba wax makes a wonderful conditioner for straightened, dyed, or otherwise chemically
damaged hair.
Kinetin
This plant hormone promotes cell division. Kinetin, whose chemical name is N(6)-furfuryladenine,
exists naturally in the DNA of almost all organisms, including human cells. Vigorously tested since
the 1990s, kinetin is a popular cosmetic ingredient that has powerful antiaging effects in human skin
cells and other body systems. Recent studies indicate that kinetin may have antitumor activity in
animals, and kinetin as 0.1 percent lotion helps restore skin barrier function, which is important in the
treatment of rosacea.
Kojic Acid
This natural whitening substance is produced by the fermentation of malted rice with the Japanese
fungus Aspergillus oryzae. Kojic acid is used in cosmetics to lighten skin since it inhibits melanin
production. Kojic acid also has antibacterial and antifungal properties. Studies conducted in 2007 in
Japan confirmed that kojic acid does not have tumorpromoting or genotoxic properties, as suspected
earlier (Higa et al. 2007). However, please note that kojic acid is still not recommended for longterm
use. There are many other natural and botanical extracts, such as licorice, niacinamide, yeast
derivatives, and polyphenols, that can effectively lighten skin tone without potential toxic effects.
Lavender (Lavandula angustifo)lia
This ubiquitous plant is used in green cosmetics as an essential oil and flower infusion. Essential
oil of lavender has antiseptic and anti-inflammatory properties. Lavender oil is traditionally used as
an acne remedy, especially when diluted with rose water or witch hazel. An infusion of lavender is
claimed to repel insects, as well as soothe and heal insect bites. In aromatherapy, lavender is used to
calm and promote natural sleep. However, these wonderful qualities come with a price: studies in
vitro have shown that lavender oil mimics estrogens in the body and has antiandrogenic activities.
There has been a report that three teenage boys developed gynecomastia (breast tissue growth), which
coincided with the topical application of products that contained lavender and tea tree oils (Henley et
al. 2007). In another disturbing report from Japan, medical researchers from the School of Dentistry
at Meikai University, Saitama, found that essential oils of lavender and rosemary enhanced free
radical damage and decreased the stress hormone, cortisol, which protects the body from oxidative
stress (Atsumi, Tonosaki et al. 2007). Until science knows more, it may be advisable to avoid using
sunscreen products heavily scented with lavender and avoid aromatherapy with lavender oil during
pregnancy and breast-feeding.