Fendi
Kim Jones’s Fendi show took inspiration from ...
Star Wars, of course. The London-based designer had
spent Christmas reading his collection of sci-fi books.So what do couture superheroes look like? Part gothic,
part celestial, it would seem. The collection was purered-carpet drama — think long and lean gowns,
draped chiffon, hand-painted images of classicalsculptures and heavy-duty baroque embellishment.
The corresponding beauty looks — slicked, wet-lookhair and crystal facial embellishments — were
equally otherworldly. Rome, the home of the Italianpowerhouse, remains a source of inspiration for Jones:
an illuminated outline of a temple hung suspendedover the catwalk as models emerged from a smoke-
filled portal to stomp the perforated steel catwalk inheel-less platform shoes.
Valentino
Silver hair, veteran faces, hips and a hint of tummy — not
regular sights on the elitist couture circuit, but this was verymuch the focus of Valentino’s show. Kristen McMenamy (57,
posing up a storm, blowing kisses in an LBD) opened whatwould be the industry’s most diverse fashion show to date:
seasoned models Marie Sophie Wilson (60, below right) andHannelore Knuts (44) got back into the game, while “curve” girls
including Levie Hsieh and Jill Kortleve (below left) joined supersLara Stone and Mariacarla Boscono in a model line-up that felt
authentically representative rather than tokenistic. Despite thesomber dress code — all 65 guests were asked to wear black
— this was no old-fashioned gathering. Rather, creative directorPierpaolo Piccioli proposed divine red-carpet-ready attire. One
particular chocolate stretch tulle dress, covered in two kilos ofVenetian glass beads, took three months to hand-embroider,
while another notable look was a white T-shirt (in silk sablécrêpe) worn with wide-leg trousers and a pair of white trainers.
Relatable couture? We’re getting there.VALENTINOFENDIVALENTINO24 • The Sunday Times Style