compete with that of running
through the wet grass, after spring
showers, or in the summer after a
thunderstorm, in quest of the
plump snails. They make their way
through shivering grass-blades, or
string out across the soft clay like
fishing boats leaving port, followed
by a silvery wake.
‘In catching snails which one will
cook oneself, one experiences the
joy of the hunter who stalks his
prey, anticipating stew, and that of
the fisherman casting his line, with
matelote before his mind’s eye.’*
GARLIC BUTTER FOR SNAILS (for 50