Australia 17 - Adelaide & South Australia (Chapter)

(Romina) #1

Adel Aide & South Au


Str Ali A


EYRE


PENINSULA


&THE


WEST


COAST


Adel Aide & South Au


Str Ali A


SLEEPING


&EATING


Adel Aide & South Au


Str Ali A


CEDUNATOTHE


WESTERN


AUSTRALIAN


BORDER


Ceduna ̈Aboriginal ̈
Arts ̈& ̈Culture ̈Centre ̈ GALLERY
(www�visitaboriginalart�com;  2 Eyre  Hwy; h9am-
5pm Mon-Fri) F The sea-inspired works of
local indigenous artists from along the coast
steal the show at this casual arts centre.

4 ̈Sleeping ̈& ̈Eating
Ceduna ̈Foreshore ̈Hotel/Motel ̈ MOTEL$$
(%08-8625 2008; www �cedunahotel�com �au;  32
O’LoughlinTce; d$150-195,f$220;aW) The ren-
ovated 54-room Foreshore is the most luxu-
rious option in town, with water views and
a bistro zooming in on west-coast seafood
(mains $16 to $32, serving 6.30am to 9am,
noon to 2pm and 6pm to 8.30pm). Views
from the outdoor terrace look through Nor-
folk Island pines and out across the bay.

Ceduna ̈Oyster ̈Bar ̈ SEAFOOD$
(%08-8626 9086; www �ceduna�net/site/page�
cfm?u=493;Eyre Hwy; 12 oysters$12; h9�30am-
5pm Mon-Fri,10am-4pmSat) Pick up a box of
freshly shucked molluscs and head for the
foreshore, or sit by the highway-side here
and watch the road trains rumble past.
Hours can be sketchy – call in advance.

Ceduna to the Western
Australian Border
It’s 480km from Ceduna to the WA border.
Along the stretch you can get a bed and a
beer at Penong (72km from Ceduna), Nun-
droo (151km), the Nullarbor Roadhouse
(295km) near Head of Bight, and at Border
Village on the border itself.
Wheat and sheep paddocks line the road
to Nundroo, after which you’re in mallee
scrub for another 100km. Around 20km lat-
er, the trees thin to low bluebush as you en-
ter the true Nullarbor (Latin for ‘no trees’).
Road trains, caravans and cyclists of ques-
tionable sanity are your only companions as
you put your foot down and careen towards
the setting sun.
Turn off the highway at Penong (popula-
tion 200), and follow the 20km dirt road to
Point Sinclair and Cactus ̈ Beach, which
has three of Australia’s most famous surf
breaks. Caves is a wicked right-hand break
for experienced surfers (locals don’t take
too kindly to tourists dropping in). There’s
bush camping (per person from $10) on
private property close to the breaks; BYO
drinking water.

The viewing platforms at Head ̈of ̈Bight
(%0407 832 297; www �yalata�org; adult $20, child
under/over 15  free/$15;h8am-5pm) overlook
a major southern-right-whale breeding
ground. Whales migrate here from Ant-
arctica, and you can see them cavorting
from May to October. The breeding area is
protected by the Great ̈Australian ̈Bight ̈
Commonwealth ̈Marine ̈Reserve (www�en
vironment�gov �au/coasts/mpa/gab), the world’s
second-largest marine park after the Great
Barrier Reef.
Head of Bight is a part of the Yalata In-
digenous Protected Area. Pay your entry fee
and get the latest whale information from
the White Well Ranger Station on the way
in to the viewing area. The signposted turn-
off is 14km east of the Nullarbor Roadhouse.
While you’re in the Head of Bight area,
you can also check out Murrawijinie ̈Cave, a
large overhang behind the Nullarbor Road-
house, and have a look at the signposted
coastal lookouts along the top of the 80m-
high Bunda ̈Cliffs.
If you’re continuing west into WA, dump
all fruit, vegetables, cheese and plants at
Border Village (as per quarantine regula-
tions), and watch out for animals if you’re
driving at night. Note that if you’re driving
east rather than west, SA’s quarantine check
point isn’t until Ceduna.

4 ̈Sleeping ̈& ̈Eating
Penong ̈Caravan ̈Park ̈ CARAVANPARK$
(%08-86251111; www �nullarbornet�com �au/towns/
penong�html; 5StiggantsRd, Penong;unpowered/
powered sites  $23/27, onsite vans/cabins from
$50/78;a) A short hop from Ceduna, this
well-kept park is rated by some travellers
as the best on the Nullarbor. The cabins are
in good shape, and the camping area has
a laundry and barbecues. Extra charge for
linen.

Fowlers ̈Bay ̈Caravan ̈Park ̈CARAVANPARK$
(%08-8625 6143;  www �nullarbornet�com �au/
towns/fowlersBay�html; FowlersBay; poweredsites
$25, units $65-75;a) There’s basic accommo-
dation, a shop and takeaway food in this
almost ghost town, plus heritage buildings,
good fishing and rambling dunes. Take the
Fowlers Bay turn-off 106km from Ceduna.

Nundroo ̈Hotel/Motel ̈ MOTEL$
(%08-8625 6120;  www �nundrooaccommodation�
com; Eyre Hwy, Nundroo;unpowered/poweredsites
$8/20,d$90; aW) If you’re heading west,
Nundroo has this decent hotel/motel and
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