Terre verte is a very weak color. But it is most tender in its quality, and is permanent to
all intents and purposes. It may get slightly darker in time, but will not lose the qualities
for which you will be used. It is very useful to use of ivory black or elsewhere, to slightly
modify a reddish tendency, and is a fine glazing color.
The chrome greens, by whatever name, Brunswick green, or the better-known
Cinnabar or Zinnober greens, are all bad. They are useful colors as color, but they will
not stand, and you will even get better color by mixing certain yellows and blues than
these will give you, so you had better lay them aside, tempting as they are.
Other colors. - You will notice that I have said nothing about the various browns and
olives and purples. It is simply because it is better for you to make all these colors than
to get them in the tubes. The earths and the browns of madder are all good, and the
mixing of madders and good blues will make all the shades of violet and purple you can
possibly want in their purity.
Palettes. - We have, then, a number of pigments which are solid and safe, of each of
the primary colors, and of such variety of qualities that the whole range of possible
colors is practicable with them in combination. To recapitulate, let us make a list of
them.
THE PERMANENT COLORS.
ZINC WHITE. LIGHT RED.
(LEAD WHITE ENOUGH SO.) ROSE MADDER.
CADMIUM YELLOW. PINK MADDER.
CADMIUM ORANGE. PURPLE MADDER.
CADMIUM YELLOW, PALE. MADDER CARMINE.
STRONTIAN YELLOW. RUBENS MADDER.
YELLOW OCHRE. ULTRAMARINE BLUE BRILLIANT
ROMAN OCHRE. ULTRAMARINE BLUE FRENCH
TRANSPARENT GOLD OCHRE. PERMANENT BLUE.
RAW SIENNA. COBALT.
BURNT SIENNA CERULEAN BLUE.
RAW UMBER. IVORY BLACK.
AUREOLIN. BLUE BLACK.
CHINESE VERMILION. VERIDIAN.
SCARLET VERMILION. EMERALD GREEN.
ORANGE VERMILION TERRE VERTE.