From top: Welcoming cocktails of gin-infused
matcha; executive sous-chef Sarah Ravitz and
chef Tammy Saunders; a skewer of eel.
about doing something reflective of
Terano’s homeland. “Japanese and
Spanish food have a lot in common,” says
Terano, a native of Osaka, who ticks off
some links: “tuna, rice, cooking over
charcoal.”
I’ll take it, or most of it. If the current
Minibar is sending out fewer “How did
they do that?” dishes than before, the
exhibition kitchen continues to delight
audiences with delicious winks and
fetching combinations of flavors, colors
and textures. Unlike in years past, there
weren’t on my recent visit any “steamed
mussels” designed to be eaten whole
(thanks to shells made from frozen squid
ink) or LOLs from spheres of pureed
broccoli and cheddary potatoes in an
enlightened version of Stouffer’s. Even so,
the Japanese-inspired format introduced
me to some sublime creations. The most
beautiful taco in town is also the most
petite, a one-bite wonder whose shell is
green with powdered seaweed and whose
filling includes a morsel of well-marbled
Iberian pork and tomatillo for a jolt of
acid. And leave it to Minibar to serve me
my first ramen en papillote.
Change is a given here, says its
founder. No matter who’s on the team or
what new ideas they’re serving, Andrés
says, “the heart is the same” at Minibar.
True, experience has taught me.
It took me awhile to eat there again.
Securing a seat in the world-famous
restaurant takes forethought and speed.
If there’s a secret to joining the party, it’s
being nimble and lucky when the tickets
go online at noon the first of every month
for the following month. Typically,
Minibar books up within 24 hours, says
general manager Dylan Falkenburg.
“We’re lucky to have this problem,” he
says. “If it were up to José, he’d have
1,000 seats and it would be free.”
Instead, there are just a dozen seats
for people who pay $295 each, a sum that
soars when wine pairings are factored in.
Take your pick from “José’s Way” for
$195 or the more bespoke $550 package.
(Minibar is not the most expensive dining
destination in Washington. That
distinction goes to Jônt on 14th Street
NW, where dinner starts at $305 for 16
courses.)
Three hundred dollars might sound
like a shocking amount of money for a
single meal. Consider, however, the time,
thought and labor that go into the
evening. Terano figures three months of
research was devoted to the current
menu. Twenty-five names are credited onFine Wines & Spirits
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