The Economist March 19th 2022 75
Culture
Culturalheritage
In the line of fire
T
wo yearsago the Khanenko Museum
in Kyiv celebrated the return of a long
lost painting. “The Amorous Couple” by
Pierre Goudreaux, an 18thcentury French
artist, was looted by the Nazis during the
second world war. It had come up for sale
at an auction in New York in 2013 and final
ly found its way home. Now the amorous
couple are back in a packingcase, hidden
away not from German occupying forces
this time, but Russian ones.
Overlooked amid the appalling human
tragedy is the threat Vladimir Putin’s war
poses to Ukraine’s cultural legacy. Besides
the obvious jewels—Kyiv, Lviv and Odes
sa—the country boasts a wealth of pretty
and characterful smaller cities and towns.
Ukraine has many lovely and interesting
buildings, from the brick Byzantine
churches of the early medieval Slav prince
doms to the futuristic Sovietera bus stops
and housing projects. (Kyiv’s central
crematorium, a fantasia in concrete that
looks like a satellite dish crossed with a
pair of elephants’ ears, is a particular won
der.) Two locally loved buildings recently
destroyed include a boxy yet charming
wooden church in Zhytomyr province and
a pinkandcream neoGothic children’s li
brary in besieged Chernihiv.
Mourned by all are around 25 paintings
by Maria Prymachenko, a folk artist whose
cheerful hybrid beasts—an orange horse
with clawed feet and wings; a blue pig with
antlers and shark fins—adorned many a
Ukrainian child’s bedroom wall. The art
works were destroyed on the fourth day of
the war, when shelling set fire to a small
museum near her home village.
Apart from the port of Mariupol, the ci
ty most damaged to date is Kharkiv, near
the Russian border, which has been heavily
shelled since the assault began. A boom
town during the Russian empire’s tardy in
dustrial revolution, it has a feast of Art
Nouveau buildings in its old centre. Khar
kiv is most famous for a complex of oddly
elegant Constructivist government offices
built during the 1920s and early 1930s,
when it was briefly the capital of the Ukrai
nian Soviet Socialist Republic. The city’s
leading architectural historian (since rela
tives are still there, she dare not let her
name be printed) says that, in both the old
and new centres, nearly every building has
been damaged. “Sometimes it’s just one
rocket, one hit. But bombed buildings usu
ally then catch fire, and their interiors burn
out...How will they survive if they have no
roof, and their interiors are gone?” she
asks. “Our Kharkiv is a new Warsaw, a new
Dresden, a new Rotterdam.”
Kharkiv’s Fine Arts Museum is now
windowless; photos show tattered blinds
and floors scattered with broken glass.
Among its prized possessions are 11 can
vases by Ilya Repin, a 19thcentury Realist
who was born nearby but made his name
in St Petersburg. “The irony”, a curator ob
serves, “is that we are having to save Rus
sian artists’ work from Russians.” Like Uk
rainians in general, in the runup to the in
vasion she and her colleagues were lulled
into a false sense of security by Volodymyr
Zelensky’s urging that life should carry on
as normal, and by the inaction of the Min
istry of Culture. “It was all, ‘Don’t mention
the war’,” says another art historian; “basi
cally, they screwed up.” As a result, when
the blasts hit, many pictures were still
Vladimir Putin’s war endangers Ukraine’s museums, exquisite architecture
and valuable archives
→Alsointhissection
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78 Worldina dish:American cuisine
78 A smuggler’stale
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