2019-09-01_Harpers_Bazaar_Australia.

GEORGES ANTONI; JASON LLOYD-EVANS; DARREN McDONALD; EDITOR’S PORTRAIT: KRISTINA SOLJO. HAIR AND MAKEUP BY SAMANTHA POWELL AT UNION

here’s beena seismicshift infashionthisseason.

The trainertrendis dying.Souped-upathleisureis

nolongerwhatwe’recraving.Andeleganceis back.

Whatwe’vebeenseeingontheA/W 2019 run-

ways(andlandinginstoresnearyounow)is about

refinement,withtailoringandeffortlesssuitingfea-

turingfrontandcentr eytrendsis the1970sbourgeoisbabe—thefantasy

versionoftheaffluent,neatlydressedwoman.Thinkprim,thinkproper.Silkblouses,

sharpblazers,sensibleskirts,touchesofboucléandeveryshadeofbeige,brownand

camelimaginable—whichourcoverstar,CarolynMurphy,bringstolifeonpage130.

It’skindofironic,isn’tit,thatwhenwhatwasoncethoughtofasrebellious(body-con

silhouettes,logosweats,massiveparkas)becomesjustanotherlooklitteringInstagram,

suddenlytheexactopposite—bourgeoisstyle,inthisinstance—feelsrevolutionary.

Forthosewhofindallthistailoringwaytootameandwantto revit up,youcanalways

addsomeangularlinesà la thelooksin“ShoulderSeason”,ourfashionshootonpage158,inwhichfashiondirector

NaomiSmithinterpretsAnthonyVaccarello’scovetablenewSaintLaurentcollection.This is somuchmorethanjust

oversizedshouldersonjackets.We’retalkingfierce. Linessosharpyoucouldcarvea hamonthem.Addtothatknife-

edgepantsandthemostincrediblemannishovercoats,whichwe’veallbeendroolingoverhereatBAZAARHQ.

If thepromiseofmorefluidtailoringstillisn’tenoughtoenticeyoutosuitup,anotherlookweloveis a boilersuit.

A fewweeksagowhenI wasinTokyotomeetwithSalvatoreFerragamocreativedirectorPaulAndrew,I fellinlove

withhistannappaleatherversion.“Womenhavesuchmultifacetedlives,”hetoldme,“soI wanteddetailslikedraw-

stringswhereyoucanadjustandshapethegarmenttoexactlyhowyouwanttowearit.”

Andrewhasgarnereda reputationfordiversemodelcastinginFerragamoshowsandcam-

paignsthatextendswaybeyondthetokenisticgestureweoftensee,wherebydesignerspopa

70-year-oldontherunwaytograbattention.This seasoninNewYork,London,Milanand

Paris,wesawsomethingmore—a definitivecelebrationofgen-Xicons.Forty-two-year-old

KirstyHumewalkedFerragamo;ChristyTurlington(50)wasspottedatMarcJacobs;Stella

Tennant(48)workedBurberry;while ShalomHarlow (45)opened theVersaceshow,and

StephanieSeymour(51)closedit.Finally.Recognitionof thenormalageingof humans!I know

I can’tlooklikean18-year-old,butat leastI canfantasiseaboutlookinglikethesewomen.

EspeciallyCarolynMurphy,theultimatecareermodel.That’sa rareclaimtomakeinthis

era,wheneveryonehasa sidehustle,aneponymousbrandoranacting

careerthey’rekeentokick off. “Ihavea tonofotherinterests,but

I don’tfeeltheneedtostandona soapboxandsay,‘I’mtryingtosave

theworld!’”MurphyrevealstoBAZAAR’s GraceO’Neill.

Knowing whoyouare. If thatisn’t theultimatestylestatement,

I don’tknowwhatis.

CarolynMurphyin

“SweetCarolyn”on

page130.Below:

“ShoulderSeason”

onpage158.

THE

NEW

FIERCE

EUGENIE KELLY

Editor-in-Chief

Salvatore
Ferragamo
A/W 2019.

24 HARPERSBAZAAR.COM.AU^ September 2019^

EDITOR’S

letter