DRINK●Will Lyons
BARGAIN OF
THE WEEK
2020
Sainsbury’s
Taste the
Difference
Douro White,
Portugal, £7.50
until Tuesday
(13.5%)
There’s still time
to pick up this
crisp, palatably
dry white at its
reduced price.
A blend of local
grape varieties
produced by
the Symington
family of port-
making fame, it
has abundant
citrus and is
well balanced,
finishing with
tangy richness.Wines from the best producers,
at a fraction of their usual price
W
here else can you buy a ten-year-old wine
from one of the greatest producers in the
northern Rhône, Jean-Louis Chave, for a
third of the price of his regular Hermitage?
Or pick up a white from fruit grown at
arguably the most famous château in
Bordeaux for less than £30 a bottle?
I am, of course, talking about own-label
wines — not the (albeit very good) ranges
you find in supermarkets, but those at
merchants enabling canny drinkers to
enjoy wines by some of the world’s most celebrated
producers, often at a fraction of the regular price.
That Chave red, for example, is hidden in the Wine
Society’s Exhibition range under Hermitage Rouge
and is released only once a year after ageing in its cellars
— so keep your eyes peeled. OK, the fruit is not from
the same vineyards as Chave’s main Hermitage, butthen it won’t set you back £240 a bottle and you’re still
benefiting from all his wine-making expertise.
The main independents are the place to seek these
bargains as they can persuade favourite producers, both
established and up and coming, to supply what is often
a limited run under their name. Corney & Barrow still
has a few bottles of its elegant citrus-infused 2019 aligoté
(£31.95) from the fêted Burgundian domaine Marquis
d’Angerville, and Berry Bros & Rudd’s zesty Chilean
sauvignon blanc from the De Martino family is just £9.95.
Sometimes the merchant will tell you who makes the
product (such as the Wine Society’s 2020 Exhibition
chenin blanc produced by the great Chris Alheit, £13.95);
sometimes not, with buyers sworn to secrecy. It’s
rumoured that Justerini & Brooks’s red burgundy, £15
a bottle, hails from one of the very top estates. Which
one? You tell me. Guessing is all part of the fun n
Twitter: @Will_Lyons; Instagram: @mrwill_lyons2019 The Wine Society’s Exhibition Langhe
Nebbiolo Italy, £13.50 (15%) A perfumed nebbiolo
from the Rizzi estate with a nose of red apple and
rose, finishing with that grippy black tea character.Justerini & Brooks NV Pomerol France, £24.60
(12.5%) The maker of this suave, supple pomerol with
lively red fruit, tobacco and cedar flavours is shrouded
in mystery, but it’s clearly one of the top domaines.2018 Corney & Barrow Rioja Crianza Bodegas
Zugober Spain, £11.95 (13.5%) Produced by a family
estate in Alavesa, this is a cracking buy if you love rich,
damson-fruited red rioja with a fresh, creamy finish.2019 Berry Bros & Rudd Good Ordinary Claret by
Dourthe France, £11.95 (14%) The best-value red in
BBR’s impressive house range, this is a supple merlot-
dominant claret with a warming wisp of wood smoke.2019 Tanners Red Burgundy Pinot Noir France,
£18.50 (12.5%) Nicolas Potel is a trusted source of
excellent burgundy and this example is brimming
with dark fruit, juicy cherries and enticing spice.Yapp Champagne France, £37 (12%) Grower
champagne, produced by the estate that owns the
vineyards, has cult status. Gilles Dumangin’s classy fizz
is crisp and light, with an emphasis on purity of fruit.123 456The Sunday Times Magazine • 43