The Sunday Times - UK (2022-04-10)

(Antfer) #1

Three techniques for


cleaning brushes if double


cleansing isn’t for you


1 “I use a gentle antibacterial washing-up
liquid, as it dissolves and removes any oil
particles instantly, leaving your brushes
squeaky clean,” says Neil Young, who is the
actress Nicola Coughlan’s go-to make-up
artist. “I put a small amount of washing-up
liquid into a mug with an inch or so of warm
water, just enough to cover the longest brush
fibres without soaking the handle, as this
contains the glue that holds the fibres in
place. Rinse thoroughly with cold water and
squeeze out any excess water.”


2 The make-up artist Joy Adenuga
recommends Cinema Secrets Professional
Grade Makeup Brush Cleaner ( 2 £30),
which is a no-rinse liquid that’s popular with
film and TV make-up artists. “Pour the cleaner
into a cup, dip the tip of your brush in and
swipe in circles on a tissue or towel,” she says.
“There’s no drying time, so brushes are ready
to use almost instantly.”


3 Those with sensitive skins who want to
avoid alcohol should try her gentle By Joy
Adenuga Brush Soap ( 3 £18). “Wet the
brushes, swirl over the soap till it lathers,
rinse them and lay out to dry,” she says.

How often should you be


cleaning your brushes?
The experts have different opinions.
According to Young we should be “cleaning
brushes for powder products every seven to
ten days. And for brushes used with creams
and liquids, I would recommend once or
twice a week as they harbour more bacteria.”
However, Michelle Abels, who specialises in
TV and film make-up, says at least once
a month is fine. Phew.
My thoughts? Go with once a month, and if
one brush looks particularly grubby or isn’t
working as well as it should then give it a
quick once-over — or a twice-over if you’re
joining the double-cleansing crew.

Which brushes do the


experts really rate?


FOUNDATION
“You can use either a ‘dome shape’
or a wide flat brush. This is more about
preference,” Abels says.
Flat brush Nyx Professional Makeup
Pro Flat Foundation Brush ( 4 £13)
Experts use this paintbrush-like
shape for a fuller coverage.
Dome shape Beauty Pie Seamless
Foundation Buffing Brush ( 5 £9, members)
This buffing brush has won me over and is
my current go-to for blending
and giving a second-skin finish.

CONCEALER
“I reach for my Vieve 119 Conceal &
Prime Brush [ 6 £24] every day, no matter
the look,” Genevieve says. “It blends
concealer like a dream, and I also use it to
smooth out harsh eyeshadow edges.”
The It Cosmetics Heavenly Luxe
Complexion Perfection Brush ( 7 £36) is
an excellent foundation and concealer
hybrid brush. The smaller end is brilliant for
getting into trickier areas such as under the
eyes and around the nose, while the larger
end gives seamless all-over coverage.

EYES
Two brush styles are ideal for
applying eyeshadow.
A flat brush MacEye Shader
Brush 239S ( 8 £21) lays down the colour
on the lids. Keep patting it on depending
on how bold you’re going.
A fluffy brush Spectrum Collections MB07
Tall Crease Blender Brush ( 9 £6) is for
blending. Use this in a windscreen-wiper
motion along the crease of the lids to blend
the edges. This step is crucial. Whenever you
think you’ve windscreen-wiped enough, go
back and forth a few more times.

BLUSH AND HIGHLIGHTER
Mishel Makeup Powder/Blusher Brush
( 10 £27) This has a tapered domed tip that
works to apply product exactly where it’s
needed, so no clown cheeks to contend
with. Abels says that while this is called a
blush brush, it also works for blending
bronzer and setting powder.

A quick one on setting powder
I’m not recommending a specific brush, as
most of the above can work. I now set my
make-up with a fluffy eyeshadow brush so
I can specifically target the areas where I’m
most prone to shine (the chin, sides of nose
and centre of the forehead).

A SPOOLIE BRUSH
Joy Adenuga Liner/Brow Brush 006
( 11 £10) A spoolie is my ride or die. When
time isn’t on my side it takes just ten seconds
to swipe it through my brows. This small
step makes everything look neater, tidier
and more put together. On the other end of
this brush is an extra perk for anyone who
likes a precise eyeliner look — the slanted
tip is crucial for a symmetrical cat flick.

And finally...


the brush cheat sheet


How to dry “Once you’ve cleaned your
brushes, lie them flat on top of a towel with
the bristles hanging off the edge of a table,”
Genevieve says. “Storing wet brushes
upright or drying over a radiator can damage
the hairs and cause the glue to come loose.”

Remember to remould “Remoulding the
brush hairs while they’re wet —making
sure they dry in their original shape — will
ensure their longevity,” Young says.

Tips for storage Experts agree that the
only way to go is upright. It keeps the
brush hairs in good nick and prevents
cross-contamination. At home my
brushes sit in upcycled candle jars.

For travel If you have more than five
brushes consider buying a brush bag that
stores brushes of all sizes. This keeps them
clean and prevents damage.

Choose synthetic There’s no excuse to not
have cruelty-free brushes. Back in the day
synthetic meant they had a strawlike feel but
now the good ones simulate a natural hair
texture. Every brush featured here is
synthetic and cruelty-free.

Now it’s time to cleanse — I mean double
cleanse. ■ @sarahjossel

10

5

4 9

8

3

7

2

6

1

11

The Sunday Times Style • 45
Free download pdf