The Sunday Times Magazine - UK (2022-04-10)

(Antfer) #1

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obody celebrates Easter more passionately
than the Spanish — as one of the country’s
most celebrated chefs, José Pizarro, explains.
“It isn’t quite as big as Christmas but Easter
was and is a very big part of our family,” he
says. “It’s a time to be together, it’s about love,
faith and celebrating the rise of Jesus Christ.”
In the village where he grew up in western
Spain, just outside the city of Cáceres, the
weekend begins with a parade visiting the
Stations of the Cross — a Catholic devotion
focusing on 14 incidents in the Passion of Christ.
Easter Sunday, however, is all about celebrating with
food. “All you do for the whole day is talk about the
food,” Pizarro says with a laugh.
During his childhood, his mother would cook either
roast lamb or goat stew, made with onions, peppers and
served with crispy potatoes. “The smell would fill the
house. It never fails to take me back to my childhood.”
In true Spanish style, the meal would never last just a
couple of hours. “Lunches last at least until dinner time
and the evenings would go on late,” Pizarro continues.
“Everyone knows the Spanish love to party, we love
family and we love to share food. Easter lunch brings
all those things together.”
Although he’s not religious, it’s thanks to the church
that Pizarro made a very important culinary discovery
as a young boy who helped serve communion: his love
of wine. “I was so small but when I started to drink the
sweet wine they would serve, I loved it!”
From Easter Iris Zahara, the chef ’s luxury clifftop
villa in Zahara de los Atunes on the Spanish coast, will
be available to hire — and Pizarro himself will cook for
guests. “It’s too beautiful not to be shared,” he says.
“The local restaurants, wineries, ingredients and
markets are incredible.”
So what will be on the menu for his own family’s
Easter lunch this year? “Something beautiful and
seasonal but simple. If you’re doing the food, it’s
important you get to enjoy your family’s company too.”

Spiced rack


of lamb with


anchovy salsa
and crispy migas
This is full of yummy flavours.
You have tender lamb, fresh
salsa and the star — the migas,
a crispy fried bread garnish.
Traditionally this is a big main
dish served with chorizo, garlic
and an egg. Here it adds texture
to the juicy, soft meat.

Serves 6

Ingredients


  • 2 x 6 racks of lamb, trimmed

  • 1 tsp smoked sweet
    pimenton

  • ½ tsp smoked hot pimenton

  • ½ tsp ground cumin

  • 1 tsp dried oregano

  • 2 tbsp olive oil


For the migas


  • Olive oil, to fry

  • 1 clove of garlic, finely sliced

  • ½ tsp smoked sweet
    pimenton

  • 150g stale bread, cut into
    small cubes


For the salsa


  • 30g fresh mint leaves

  • 50g flat-leaf parsley leaves

  • 1 shallot

  • 2 cloves of garlic

  • 6 salted anchovies


Celebrate Easter like the


Spanish — whip up a meal


the whole family can savour


FEAST FIT FOR A FIESTA



  • 2 tbsp capers, drained and
    rinsed

  • Finely grated zest of a lemon

  • Extra virgin olive oil


01 Heat the oven to 180C
(200C non-fan). Season the
lamb all over. Blend the spices
with the oil and rub this over
the lamb racks, then put them
into a roasting tin. Roast for
20-25 min for medium rare,
then rest for at least 10 min
before serving.

02 Meanwhile, make the
migas. Heat a good layer of oil
in a heavy-based frying pan
over a medium heat and once
shimmering, add the garlic,
pimenton and bread cubes.
Fry until golden and crisp,
then drain on kitchen towel
and season with sea salt.

03 For the salsa, finely chop
the herbs and shallot and put
into a bowl. Crush the garlic
cloves and anchovies and add
them to the bowl. Roughly
chop the capers and add them
and the lemon zest to the herbs
with enough extra virgin olive
oil to make a spoonable salsa.
Season well and set aside.

04 Once the lamb is rested,
slice into cutlets and serve
with the salsa and a sprinkling
of garlicky crumbs.

JOSƒ PIZARRO


Pizarro will
cook for guests
who hire his
luxury villa, Iris
Zahara, on the
Spanish coast PHOTOGRAPHS: JAMIE ORLANDO SMITH FOR THE SUNDAY TIMES, PROP STYLING: LUIS PERAL
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