The Sunday Times Magazine - UK (2022-04-10)

DRINK●Will Lyons

2020 Finest

Soave Superiore

Classico

Tesco, £7.50

(13%) Italy

Spring is here

and it’s time to

break out the

soave. This light,

golden-hued

white is fresh

and clean, with

plenty of citrus

zing and notes

of stone fruit.

Produced from

garganega

grapes by

Cantina di

Monteforte, it

improves in the

glass to deliver

an enjoyably

nutty, dry finish.

Bargain

of the

week

The best wines to pair

with Easter lamb

I

s there a more accommodating food in the wine

lover’s recipe book than lamb? Roasted, grilled,

barbecued, stewed or curried, it goes with pretty

much anything. As one wine merchant said to me:

“I had to stop asking my producers what we should

serve at their winemaker dinners as they always

wanted lamb.” Its sweet, fatty texture lends itself

to anything from the astringent tannins found in

cabernet sauvignon to a savoury rosé or even a richly

textured white. It all depends on how it’s prepared.

With Easter on the horizon, a slow-cooked

shoulder smothered in oil with a sprig of rosemary from

the garden would go well with a châteauneuf-du-pape,

such as the impressive 2019 Le Prince de Courthézon

(The Sunday Times Wine Club, £27), or a traditional,

creamy rioja such as Marks & Spencer’s 2014 El Duque

de Miralta Gran Reserva (£15). If more gently flavoured

pink spring lamb is on the menu, you can go lighter

with a fruity red such as Aldi’s 2021 Specially Selected

Argentinian Pinot Noir (£6.99), or a floral, delicate

burgundy like a Chambolle Musigny. Alternatively, if

you’re firing up the barbecue for the first alfresco lunch

of the year, a refreshing dry rosé from Provence would

work well, although you may prefer something darker

and more assertive, such as a Tavel. While it’s a little

left-field, I wouldn’t rule out white either — a bottle

that’s rich, savoury and herbal rather than fruity and

floral, such as a chenin blanc from South Africa or even

a white hermitage.

In truth, though, my preference for Easter Sunday

is something red, rich and traditional: a dry bordeaux

from one of the classic communes on the left bank

such as Pauillac, St Julien or St Estèphe positively

sings with the crowded flavours on the plate and the

sweetness of early season lamb. Here are few other

tried-and-tested favourites n

2018 Taste the Difference Saint Chinian Sainsbury’s,

£9 (14.5%) France A rich, succulent, good-value

blend of syrah and grenache typical of the Languedoc.

Full of rustic charm, it will pair well with lamb curry.

2019 Finest Ebeia Ribera del Duero Tesco, £12

(14.5%) Spain Brimming with blackcurrant and

liquorice, this packs the power and flavour to stand

apart from the teeming flavours of a traditional roast.

2018 Zuccardi Valles Bonarda Hic! Wine Merchants,

£12.50 (13%) Argentina Soft and juicy, with lovely

acidity and inviting savoury flavour, this medium-

weight Mendoza red is ideal paired with grilled chops.

2015 Château Begadanet Médoc Majestic, £13.99

(13.5%) France Here’s a classic old-school cabernet

sauvignon-dominant red bordeaux from the left bank,

with evolved aromas of spice, cedar and dark fruit.

2020 Chinon Desbourdes L’Arpenty Yapp Brothers,

£15.25 (13.5%) France Perfect for spring, this cabernet

franc is laden with bright, crunchy red fruit and spot-

on with pink new-season lamb. Serve slightly chilled.

2017 Villa Boscorotondo Chianti Classico Riserva

Co-op, £16 (13.5%) Italy This luscious, velvety chianti

carries enticing notes of cherry and dried herbs and

has a smooth finish. Enjoy with lamb chops and mash.

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