The Sunday Times Magazine - UK (2022-04-24)

DRINK●Will Lyons

2020 LA MIA

STRADA

FALANGHINA

Co-op, £7.50

(13%), Italy

As we step into

spring our

palates naturally

crave something

a little lighter

and more floral.

Cue falanghina,

a delightful

white grape

grown around

Naples. This

example sings

with fresh

acidity, stone

fruit character

and a pure,

clean finish.

Ideal for sipping

on its own.

A tour of Sonoma County

reaps refreshing rewards

I

t was Franciscan missionaries who first planted vines

in California, heading as far north as Sonoma, where

in the late 18th century they began cultivating

vineyards for the production of communion wine.

So successful is California’s wine industry today,

with its glamorous, almost space-age wineries in

Napa, bottles that sell for thousands of dollars and

oceans of good value, it’s easy to forget that the early

settlers were enjoying their first few vintages more

than 200 years ago. Driving around the relaxed, rural

back roads of Sonoma County, known for its small

homesteads, giant redwoods and green, wooded valleys,

it’s easy to understand how those Christian visitors

thought this would be a winemaking paradise.

Today, for lovers of lighter, fresher wines, high in

acidity and with a smell of tart, red fruit, the cool

vineyards of Sonoma are among the most exciting.

Here, in areas such as the Russian River Valley and

Petaluma Gap, chardonnay and pinot noir thrive as the

grapes retain their freshness thanks to the chilly wind

that rolls in off the Pacific and the morning fogs that

have all but burnt away by lunchtime.

Producers such as Littorai, Marimar Estate, Hirsch,

Ramey and Arnot-Roberts are making wines of elegance

and precision. These are collectors’ wines, though, so

those wanting a bargain should look away now, as the

ones we see in the UK are in the fine wine bracket. But

California is much more than fine wine. In neighbouring

Mendocino County, the 2018 Bonterra Organic

Cabernet Sauvignon (£12, from Tesco) delights with its

dark fruit and power, and there are other examples below.

As with every big wine-growing region, climate

change is a serious concern and the threat of wildfires

and drought is very real. But with its sea breezes and

maritime climate, Sonoma might be better placed than

others to preserve those cooler, fresher styles n

1. 2020 Delicato Vineyards Chalk Duster Zinfandel
   Co-op, £7.50 (14.2%) This is an astonishingly good
   Californian zinfandel for the money. If ripe, primary
   red fruit is your thing, you will love this.


2. 2017 Paris Valley Road Zinfandel The Wine Society,
   £11.50 (15%) A light, vibrant, easy-drinking zinfandel
   blend replete with damson and intense fruit, but not
   too heavy and with a moreish streak of acidity.


3. 2018 Reata Sonoma Coast Chardonnay
   Sainsbury’s, £16 (14.5%) An elegant and crisp
   chardonnay, though with enough creamy oak, faint
   honey and citrus to place it in California.
   4. 2018 Rodney Strong Vineyards Sonoma County
   Cabernet Sauvignon Tanners, £25 (14.5%) This has
   plenty of layered dark fruit and savoury black pepper
   and spice — decant and serve it with something
   pretty full-bodied such as a lean steak.
   5. 2018 Saintsbury Carneros Pinot Noir Majestic,
   £28.99 (13.5%) A perfect Californian pinot noir with
   aromas of red fruit and cherries. Rich and spicy on
   sipping, it finishes off with a refreshing acidity.
   6. 2018 Berry Bros & Rudd Sonoma County Chardonnay
   £37 (13%) A David Ramey chardonnay that combines
   a silky texture with a burst of lively intensity.

123 456

Bargain

of the

week

JASON ALDEN

The Sunday Times Magazine • 61