Bloomberg Businessweek - USA (2019-06-24)

Day.(Mosttastingroomsdon’tserve

food,butDomainePouillonwillwhip

upa cheeseorsalmonplateonrequest.)

BackoverthebridgetoOregon,a pic-

turesque10-minutedriveeasttoMosier,

AnalemmaWines’StevenThompson

makessomeofthebestterroir-driven

biodynamicwinesaround—froma single-

vineyardsparklingblancdenoirstoa

vibranttintoblend,whichtastesofdark

redcherryanddriedherbs.

DiningandBeer

ResolutelycasualHoodRiverisyour

bestbetforhealthy,deliciousfare.Start

yourdaywithBroderOst’saebleskivers,

Danish-style spherical “pancakes”

dustedwithpowderedsugarandserved

withlingonberryjamandhousemade

lemoncurd.Upstairs,thefunky—and

reportedlyhaunted—1912HoodRiver

Hotelhas 41 rooms and suites, many

with fantastic gorge views.

PFriem Family Brewers, one of

Oregon’sbestbreweries,offersabout

20 beersontap—froma hazyIPA to

a Belgianstrong.Thenew seasonal

menuisexcellent,too,inwhichsam-

balhoneykicksupbuttermilkfried

chickenanda lentil-mushroomveg-

gieburgerwithspringgarlicaiolisets

a newstandard.

Downthestreet,NewYorkersDan

andJennPetersonopenedFerment

BrewingCo.lastAugust.Dan,whocut

histeethatBrooklynBrewery,makes

flavor-packedBelgianandFrenchfarm-

housealesaswellaslagers,paleales,

andstouts.Ina statewherehoppyIPAs

areking,thisisa refreshingchange,

andtheofferingspairperfectlywiththe

Mediterranean-inflectedmenuofflat-

breadsandslow-roastedmeats—plus

Jenn’shousemadefrozenyogurt.

Ontheupscaleendofthedining

spectrum,Celilostillstandsstrongafter

14 years,withskillet-roasted Totten

Inlet clams and rich pork sugo over

rye-flourgnocchi,servedwithpurple

broccolisprouts.

Butthearea’smostmemorableres-

ervationis highinthehillsabovetown

atHiyuWineFarm.Hiyumeans“the

bigparty”inChinookJargon,a Pacific

Northwestpidginlanguage,andNate

Readyandhispartner,ChinaTresemer,

don’tdisappoint,bringinginchefssuch

as GunnarGislason from Michelin-

starredDillinIcelandtocollaborateon

locallylegendarydinners.If youaren’tin

townforone,optfora lavishfamily-style

weekendlunch.Otherwise,winetast-

ings are Thursdaythrough Monday

byappointmentandincludeseasonal

snackssuchasColumbiaRiversmelt

escabècheandgriddledpeashootswith

curedduckyolk.Ready’sfieldblends

arewildexperimentsinnaturalwines:

Some 120 grape varieties are grown side-

by-side, then fermented together. Some

Hiyu wines are served at White Salmon

Baking Co., where Poberaj pours them at

Monday night pizza parties. <BW>

BIKING

Rentane-bikefrom

SolRidesforthe

16-mileround-trip

journeyfromHood

Rivertothehamlet

ofMosierviathe

HistoricColumbia

RiverHighway,

nowa pedestrian

andbikepath.

The1920sfeatof

engineeringclings

tosheercliffsand

burrowsthrough

basaltrock.

HIKING

OntheOregonside

ofthegorge,the

popular,short-but-

steepAngel’sRest

Trailhasreopened

afterthefires,

thoughtheforest

servicestillurges

caution.Headtothe

Washingtonside

forviewsofMount

Hood.Beginners

cantryCatherine

Creek;thelongest

trailis just5.5miles

round-trip.Eastof

Bingen,the7.8-mile

CoyoteWallTrailis

moreofa challenge

andalsopopular

withmountain

bikers.Formore

hikes,theFriendsof

theColumbiaGorge

maintainsa detailed

list—justremember

tobeonthelookout

forpoisonoak

andticks.

KITESURFING

Forlessons,Kite

theGorgeis the

bestplacetofind

a pro.Private

two-and-a-half-

hourlessonsstart

at$285.

69

COURTESY SAVAGE GRACE WINES

The new
tasting room
at Savage
Grace

Burn Those

Calories

The food and wine may be

great, but the best part of the

gorge is the outdoors