The Times - UK (2022-04-30)

(Antfer) #1
the times Saturday April 30 2022

We e ke n d 9


2021 Ramon Bilbao Rioja
Rosado, Spain, 12.5 per cent
Tesco, £8
Skip Ramon Bilbao’s cheaper
pink — it’s only the rioja
version that gets my
thumbs-up. With a pretty
pale hue, this surprisingly
full-bodied, tasty, meaty,
smoky rosado has the
guts to cope with garlicky
grilled prawns and spicy
lamb kebabs.

A small bunch of coriander, chopped
1-2 bird’s-eye chillies, finely chopped
Method
1 Grind the coriander seeds using a
pestle and mortar; tip into a bowl. Add
the turmeric, kecap manis, soy sauce, oil,
chilli, garlic and stir. Add the mushrooms
and baby corn and toss together.
Marinate for 30 min to an hour.
2 To make the satay sauce, fry the oil,
shallots, garlic, ginger and lemongrass
in a pan on a medium heat for 10 min.
Add the peanuts, creamed coconut,
250ml of water, soy sauce and sugar.
3 Bring to the boil, then simmer, stirring
often, for 5 min. Use a stick blender to
puree to a smoothish sauce and season.
4 Fire up your barbecue for direct
grilling, adding a plancha if you have
one, or preheat a griddle pan on the hob.
5 Spread the mushrooms and baby corn
on the barbecue and cook for 15 min,
turning regularly, until golden brown.
6 Pile the vegetables onto a platter with
a bowl of satay sauce and the lime.
Sprinkle over the coriander and chilli.

2019 Pierre Jaurant
Corbières, France,
14.5 per cent Aldi, £6.49
If it’s got to be French,
even for a barbecue,
this is the bottle you
should buy. Fifty-fifty
peppery syrah and
warming grenache, this
excellent earthy red has
all the rustic, bramble and
spicy herb fruit any
barbecue could ask for.

the grain when you serve. Lay the
prosciutto onto the steak, then dot the
’nduja over the top. Sprinkle with the
parmesan, basil leaves and capers and
finish with a grind of pepper.
3 Starting from the side nearest you, roll
it up tight into a long cylinder. Take the
string and tie at regular intervals to
secure the roll tight. Sprinkle salt over
the outside and rest on a rack over a
tray. Place in the fridge for 2-24 hours.
4 When you are ready to cook, fire up
your barbecue with two strips of fire
down either side. Leave the vents open.
You want a hot barbecue of 220-240C,
with an indirect heat down the centre.
5 Rest the bavette on the grill, seam side
down, in the centre of the barbecue and
shut the lid. Cook indirectly for 30 min
or until a probe reaches 40C in the
centre. Then use tongs to slide the roll
directly over the fire and sear over a
high heat, turning every few minutes for
15 min. For medium-rare, lift it off the
grill when the centre reaches 56C.
6 Scatter the tomatoes on a plate,
sprinkle on basil, drizzle with balsamic
and olive oil and season. Rest the roll on
the centre of the plate and carve.

Rolled bavette, tomatoes and
balsamic vinegar

Serves 4-6
Ingredients
1kg bavette steak
80g prosciutto
60g ’nduja
60g parmesan, freshly grated
Bunch of basil, leaves torn (about 30g)
2 tbsp capers
1 tbsp olive oil
750g really ripe mixed tomatoes, sliced
Bunch of basil, leaves torn
3-4 tbsp best quality balsamic vinegar
3-4 tbsp extra virgin olive oil
8-10 x 25cm lengths of butcher’s string
Method
1 “Butterfly” the steak, opening it up into
a thinner layer, doubling its size. Lay the
steak on a board, press the flat of your
hand onto it and apply pressure. Use a
sharp knife to make a horizontal cut
through the middle, using short slicing
strokes. Stop when you’re 2cm from the
other side and open it out like a book.
2 Turn the steak so the grain of the
meat runs horizontally from left to right
— this will ensure that you slice across

my husband near the barbecue


Mushrooms and baby corn with
satay sauce

Serves 4-6
Ingredients
2 tbsp coriander seeds, toasted
2 tsp ground turmeric
4 tbsp kecap manis (sweet soy sauce)
3 tbsp soy sauce
2 tbsp vegetable oil
3-4 bird’s-eye chillies, chopped, to taste
3 cloves of garlic, crushed
500g oyster mushrooms
2 x 175g packs of baby corn
For the satay sauce
1 tbsp vegetable oil
2 banana shallots, finely chopped
2 cloves of garlic, crushed
2.5cm piece of fresh root ginger, grated
1 stalk of lemongrass, outer leaves dis-
carded, inner core finely chopped
100g roasted salted peanuts, chopped
100g creamed coconut, chopped
2 tbsp soy sauce
1-2 tsp soft dark brown sugar, to taste
1 fat lime, cut into wedges

Rolled bavette
with tomatoes

Duvel Tripel Hop Citra
Belgian IPA, 9.5 per cent
Sainsbury’s, Morrisons and
Tesco, 330ml bottle, £2.50
Unthinkable to have a
barbecue without beer,
but don’t serve a weak
lager — trade up to a
favourite summer swig
instead: Duvel’s Tripel
Hop, bursting with crisp,
refreshing, floral, yeasty,
orange-zest fruit.
A little goes a long way.

2021 Errazuriz Sauvignon
Blanc Reserva, Chile,
13 per cent Morrisons,
£6.50, down from £9
Don’t spend a fortune on
barbecue bottles — what
you want are good, cheap,
easy-sippers that can
wash down all those chilli-
hot spices. Step forward
this stylish, cut-price
Chilean sauvignon with
lots of punchy, verdant,
passion-fruit charm.

2020 Errazuriz Cabernet
Sauvignon Reserva, Chile,
13.5 per cent Morrisons,
£6.50, down from £9
Barbecue-friendly reds
are easier to nail than
whites due to their extra
fruit, body and alcohol.
Serving the robust, hearty,
mint and blackcurrant
pastille-licked Errazuriz
cabernet after the white
makes sense as the duo
complement each other.

Barbecued mushrooms
and baby corn

Genevieve Taylor’s essentials 5 top barbecue


bottles


Jane MacQuitty


ANDREW CROWLEY/TELEGRAPH; JASON INGRAM

V Ivy line metal
cooking bowl, £40,
made.com

Compiled by Sidonie Wilson

X CasusGrill disposable eco
bbq, £9, souschef.co.uk

Tongs, spatulas, gloves
Long-handled spatulas and tongs for
grabbing and turning food are essential,
as is a set of sturdy heatproof gloves.
Leather welders’ mitts are the best for
protecting your hands.
Thermometers
The most useful bit of kit you can
invest in for cooking meat on the
barbecue is a temperature probe, such
as a Thermapen.
Pots, pans, trays
Taking pans to your fire increases the
variety of things you can cook. Pretty
much anything goes and I usually grab
whatever I have to hand in the kitchen
— enamel tins, stainless-steel saucepans,

spun-steel frying pans. It doesn’t need to
be sold as “barbecue friendly”, just make
sure it has no plastic or wooden handles,
and I wouldn’t advise non-stick surfaces.

Vegetable grilling trays
These are really useful — metal trays
perforated with lots of holes, allowing
you to cook smaller things that might
fall through the grill bars while still
letting the smoke through to add flavour.
Chapa or plancha
A heavy-duty flat metal sheet that you
set on your grill bars and use to cook on
— great for burgers and also for non-
meaty things like frying eggs or making
pancakes. You can easily substitute a
large, flat frying pan (skillet).

The ultimate alfresco steak


What to cook for vegans


V Hygiplas bbq serving
tongs, £3.69,
nisbets.co.uk
Free download pdf