Italian whose last job saw him cooking at the Japanese-
accented Nama in France and Greece. Kim, the executive sushi
chef, brings experience under some of New York’s best-known
Japanese chefs, including Masaharu Morimoto and Nobuyuki
Matsuhisa.
Tacos from an Italian chef in a Japanese restaurant? Yes,
please. Salmon blended with wasabi mayonnaise and
garnished with bright salmon roe intrigued me initially.
Bluefin fatty tuna flavored with a yuzu-truffle dressing and
dressed with domestic sturgeon caviar reinforced the fusion
concept. The wrappers’ crunch is distinctive and delicious:
housemade potato chips!
Pretty much everything that isn’t sushi is the watch of
Conti, a native of Lake Como whose passion for Japanese
cooking has found him in restaurants specializing in the
cuisine for the past decade. Looking around at what others are
eating is apt to sell you on something fried, perhaps juicy-sweet
rock shrimp, spiked with lime salt, or squid sheathed in a
batter of rice and potato starch and brightened with green
chiles and lime. The robata grill, fueled partly with binchotan,
a type of Japanese charcoal prized for its clean and powerfulFr om top: Salmon
tacos, garnished with
bright salmon roe.
Shoto chefs Kwang
Kim and Alessio Conti
in front of a wall of
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