Lonely Planet India - August 2016

B

UT back to the Gruyère cows – and to cream! The compact town of Murten by the lake –
yes on the opposite shore from Môtiers – was built by the Zähringen family in the
12th century ruled by the Savoyards for a while and then was the headquarters
of Charles the Bold Duke of Burgundy till he suffered a crushing defeat at the hands
of the Swiss Confederate army in 1476. Which means there’s an awful lot of great medieval
architecture on offer – an almost entirely-preserved town wall decorated arcades buildings
from the 17th and 18th centuries built in warm yellow Jura limestone from Lake Neuchatel
and local grey-green sandstone. You could also walk the Lindensaal promenade for views
of Lake Murten or actually go down to the lake and indulge in some watersports.
Or you could relax and follow the cream – Gruyère cream – to the Bäckerei Aebersold 
in town where the nidelkuchen a cream pie holds court an exclusive creation from three
generations of family bakers. A thin pastry dough is the base then five – yes five! – thin layers
of cream are added; the first three are slightly tart and sweet and part of the baking process.
The last two double cream layers are added after and a thin caramel crust crowns the effort.
There is no better salute to Cherry the cow.

Go for the

creamiest pie

Relax and follow the cream –

Gruyère cream – to the Bäckerei Aebersold

in town where the nidelkuchen

a cream pie holds court

MEANDER

THROUGH MURTEN

Murten’s Bern Gate – Berntor – has been rebuilt

many times since the 13th century; the current

gate dating back to the second half of the

18th century is by Bern’s master architect

Niklaus Hebler who is also known for the

Zytglogge in Bern. The clock face on the outside

wall has only one hand a symbolic “hand

of oath” indicating that Murten is a free city.

Walk the town’s rampart walls raised in several

stages and from a variety of materials – gravel

turf and sandstone – dating back to even before

the town was constructed in the 12th century.

It was built by the citizens at the request

of King Conrad IV in return for a four-year tax

exemption following the completion of

the 12-foot wall. The Murten Museum has

a multimedia show on the Battle of Murten.

1 2