Lonely Planet India - August 2016

(lily) #1

TRAVEL FOR VALUE EGYPT


a renaissance to become the cool new kid on the block
but it’s also been home to people for scads of years.
It’s a curious amalgamation of neighbourhoods that have
flourished here largely broken down by ethnicity though
the gentrification that’s hit Brooklyn seems to be eroding
those lines. And it’s quiet. There’s none of that skywards
rubbernecking here though the architecture is nothing
to scoff at. In fact unlike Manhattan’s madness which
sometimes leaves you wondering how people actually
live there this is a place you can see kids growing up in.
But nowhere am I more startled by this amalgamation
of characters than while heading across to Williamsburg
which I’ve been told is hipster headquarters. While we’re
bussing it there a good friend who’s based in Brooklyn fills
me in on the transition of neighbourhoods. Williamsburg
it seems is a Hasidic Jewish enclave – so you go from signs
in Hebrew and people dressed in the most demure fashion
to a raucous parade of what is vying to be the next almost-
cool by crossing over from one avenue to the next.
The flea markets that pop up here in Williamsburg
are great places to attempt to crack a subculture that
continues to be a mystery to me. We wander into Artists &
Fleas an indoor market and are immediately consumed
by the vibe and taken in by a slew of products that are
achingly well hip; think books crafted into working clocks
wooden sunglasses artisanal beard oils... despite our best
intentions Unni and I are laden down with guilty purchases
when we emerge.
I’m woefully aware of the fact that we have altogether
too little time to do this borough justice – we haven’t so
much as thought about the Russian enclave that is Brighton
Beach! – and no time at all to explore any of the others;
yet another thing to throw into that bucket. And I know
too that Manhattan itself is a wealth of neighbourhoods
that are often just passed under or driven through by visitors
checking off a list. An eating jag that covers parts of Little
Italy is what’s on the menu then.
Food is perhaps the best way to get a quick taster (hehe)
of an area or my favourite way to do so at least. And the
Mario Batali Greenwich Village Food Tour lives up to its
promises to shed light on the history and significance of
the Italian community that boomed here and its myriad
influences on the city (and no we’re not talking mob here).
We stroll past the tiny tight houses that the migrants resided
in as we nibble on hearty arancini balls stop listening to our
guide explaining the birth of pizza as we know it while we
mow through deliciously cheesy slices and even get
an education in the magic that’s possible with olive oil
and balsamic vinegar. The conclusion of course is with
a bar of fresh icy gelato that we’re all wishing we’d kept
some space in our tummies for.

MAKE IT HAPPEN:
Brooklyn Museum: 00-1-718-638-5000; http://www.brooklymuseum.org;
200 Eastern Parkway; 11am – 6pm Fri – Sun and Wed till 10pm Thur Mon


  • Tues closed; suggested admission fee: 1100 adult 19 and under free Chavela’s: 00-1-718-622-3100; [http://www.chavelasnyc.com](http://www.chavelasnyc.com) info@ chavelasnyc.com; 736 Franklin Ave; 11am – 11pm Mon –Thur till 12am Fri from 10am Sat – Sun brunch: 10am – 3.30pm Sat – Sun brunch menu: 950 with Mexican sweet bread and coffee tea or juice
    Artists & Fleas: 00-1-917-488-4203; http://www.artistsandfleas.com;
    70 North 7th St Brooklyn; 10am – 7pm Sat – Sun
    Mario Batali Greenwich Village Food Tour: 00-1-888-683-8671;
    http://www.walksofnewyork.com/new-york-tours/greenwich-village-
    food-tour; 4300 adult 2970 child


1

2

3
Free download pdf