chocolate. There is also Maison Dandoy
where you can buy speculoos crisp spicy
biscuits (the cashierâs mood can be mercurial
but then what is travel without a little
uncertainty?) and Aux Merveilleux de Fred
on Rue de Marche aux Herbes where pastry
chefs weigh down light-as-air meringues
with cream and chocolate flakes.
Wander on past St Nicholas Church and
the Brussels Stock Exchange now called
Euronext Brussels housed in a gorgeous
19th-century building. Behind it is the
pedestrianised Boulevard Anspach â lined
with among other stores comic book stores
like Multi BD that flourish in this comics-
mad city. In 1991 the city commissioned
the creators of iconic comics to cover
the side walls of buildings (in Brussels
you own your house and façade but the city
can take over your side wall) and today
you have over 50 of these great street art
pieces across the comic centre of town.
Marvel first at Ric Hochetâs rescue
of the damsel on Rue du Bon Secours
before walking on to see the Manneken Pis
dressed in one of the 900 costumes gifted
to him then on to see other comic paintings
(get yourself a helpful mini map from
the information centre for this). Step onto
a side street to see a piece of the city wall
from the 11th century and tramp a longish
way past the Notre Dame de la Chapelle
the statue of King Albert much loved
because he led his troops into battle
himself and past the Central Railway
Station before coming upon
a massive figure of Gaston
an Everyman hero who
invites you to step down
to the Belgian Comic Strip
Centre. Within you will find
the art of the comic in many frames many
photo-ops with installations and special
sections on Tintin and the Smurfs.
Have lunch at the Horta Brasserie
in the museum â the pastas are excellent.
Then gird your loins and walk up through
the Railway Station and to your right
to the Chocolatier Laurent Gerbaud opposite
the Mobar. At a chocolate workshop that
has you working with chocolate and fillings
Chef Laurent â a very funny man with
a dry sense of humour â will ruin regular
chocolate for you for life.
Then walk down again buy any more
fancy chocolate you may suddenly need
to sustain you for a few months and sit
yourself down to dinner at Chez Leon
holding its own on the frenetic
Rue des Bouchers since 1893.
It has its own Leon beer
and of course it has mussels.
Because the mussels in Brussels â
you canât not try them.
BRUSSELS ESSENTIALS
STAY
The Dominican: 00-32-2-203-0808; http://www.carlton.nl/
en/the-dominican-hotel-brussels info@
thedominican.carlton.be; Léopoldstraat 9;
from ` 8650
EAT/ DRINK
- Brasserie Horta: 00-32-2-217-7271;
http://www.brasseriehorta.be; Rue des Sables 20;
12pm â 3pm Tues â Fri till 3.30pm Sat â Sun;
express three-course lunch: ` 990 - Chez Leon: 00-32-2-511-1415; http://www.chezleon.be;
Rue des Bouchers 18; 11.30am â 11pm Sun â Thur
till 11.30pm Fri â Sat; mains from685 mussels from
800 - Delirium Café: 00-32-2-514-4434;
http://www.deliriumcafe.be; Impasse de la Fidélité 4a;
10am â 4am
SEE/ DO
- Theatre Royal de la Monnaie: 00-32-2-229-1211;
http://www.lamonnaie.be/en; Place de la Monnaie; guided
tour in English: 12pm Sat Sept â Jun;920 adult
460 (six â 30 years) child under 6 free - Jeanneke Pis: http://www.jeannekepisofficial.com;
Impasse de la Fidélité 10-12; free - Manneken Pis: corner of Rue de lâEtuve
and Rue du Chene; free - Belgian Comic Strip Centre: 00-32-2-219-1980;
http://www.comicscenter.net/en; Rue des Sables 20;
10am â 6pm;765 adult
535 (12 â 25 years) - Chocolaterie Laurent Gerbaud: 00-32-2-511-1602;
http://www.chocolatsgerbaud.be; 2D Rue Ravenstein;
chocolate workshop: 11.30am â 1pm Sat prior booking
required; ` 2670/ person
BUY
- Leonidas: 00-32-25-128-737; http://www.leonidas.com;
Rue au Beurre 34; 10am â 11pm; chocolate bars
from76 ready box of assorted minis:
660 - Elizabeth Chocolatier: 0-32-2-344-3303;
http://www.elisabeth.be; Boterstraat 43 Rue au Beurre;
10am â 10pm; chocolate-covered orange rind
from ` 800 - Maison Dandoy: 00-32-2-540-2702;
http://www.maisondandoy.com/en; 31 Rue au Beurre;
9am â 7pm; Spectaculoos Speculoos: ` 920/ 250g - Aux Mervielleux de Fred: 00-32-5-40-2608;
http://www.auxmerveilleux.com; 7 Rue du Marche
aux Herbes; 9am â 7pm; from ` 250 - Multi BD: 00-32-2-513-7235; Boulevard Anspach
122 â 124; 10.30am â 7pm Mon â Sat 12.30pm â
6.30pm Sun; comics from ` 840
GOOD TO KNOW
- In Brussels many streets have official names
in white and comic names on blue plates. - Watch out for the Manneken Peace â
not part of the original comic tradition â
on your walk though Brussels. - More information: http://www.visit.brussels/en
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EASY EUROPE FLANDERS
PHOTOGRAPHS: © ARTERRA PICTURE LIBRARY/ ALAMY STOCK PHOTO (1) © MAURICE SAVAGE/ ALAMY STOCK PHOTO (2) FACING PAGE: © DEBORAH HARMES/ ALAMY STOCK PHOTO (1) © IMAGEBROKER/ ALAMY STOCK PHOTO (2) © STUART FORSTER/ ALAMY STOCK PHOTO (3) © RICCARDO SALA/ ALAMY STOCK PHOTO (4) © AGE FOTOSTOCK/ ALAMY STOCK PHOTO (5) © IAN DAGNALL / ALAMY STOCK PHOTO
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